Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

breakfast

Sumptuous Scones and So Much More at The Morehead

In a world increasingly cluttered with plastic card keys and generic breakfast buffets scattered around Interstates like so many five-story hotel dominoes, it’s nice to know that there remain special B & B finds that offer so much more, and not for much more money.  These are the kind of places where you’re greeted by name, personally led up a creaky, grand winding staircase topped with a chiming grandfather clock, and, with chunky brass key in hand, enter a soothing oasis of chintz, fat pillows, crisp linens and a cup of hot tea served in a china cup.  These are the kind of places where one feels utterly at home and nurtured, and the kinds of places I personally welcome after a long day (or several days) of travel.

Slightly faded but consummately stately and Southern, The Morehead Inn in Charlotte, NC, is just this kind of place. Built in 1917, the white clapboard and dark green tiled roof mansion was a private residence until it was converted into an inn in the 1980’s. It still bears the mood of a family residence, generously decorated with plush, deep sofas and chairs,  Oriental carpets, mirrors and classic Oriental vases and curios. The staff, largely overseen by matriarchal Guest Service Manager Carolyn Jordan, is exceptionally friendly but adept at giving guests privacy and quiet as needed.

The Morehead Inn is situated in a rolling, green suburb of Charlotte called Dilworth. Broad avenues with leafy trees (just beginning to change during my visit) is an idyllic slice of Southern Americana. My amazing publicist and friend, Stephanie Burt, who is a proud Charlottean by birth, found it for us, and we were both so glad she did.

Naturally, The Morehead experience doesn’t stop at hospitality and charm, but includes a remarkable breakfast feast each morning. There are three choices, a continental menu of yogurt, fruit, pastries, a hot egg, grits, bacon, etc., option, and even Belgian waffles and pancakes made to order.  Each is as great as the next, and keeps you full until well into the afternoon, which makes planning a three night-stay practically mandatory.  Aside from being served by the charming Carolyn, the other thing each of these breakfast shares in common is the inclusion of the most amazing scones perhaps on this earth, almost certainly in the South.

Sumptuous Scones at The Morehead Inn

Prepared by justifiably proud and very talented Pastry Chef Carol Weinles, they have a flakiness and airiness that defies anything I’ve ever before experienced with scones. In fact, prior to sampling Chef Carol’s scones, I’ve never really liked them before, considering them rather mealy and crumbly. Pictured in the upper left-hand corner in the shot above, they are also smaller than most, and make a most inviting, light addition to breakfast. But, no butter is required! Weinles attributes the high butter content and leavening agent (baking powder) to the unique deliciousness of her scones. She was generous enough to share her recipe, below. The fruit added to the scones, according to Weinles, varies, ranging from simple orange zest, to dried cranberries, or dried apricots.

Carol Weinles’ Sumptuous Scones

(Makes 16 – 20 scones)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 cup + 1 tablespoon All Purpose flour

3/4 cup cake flour

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup dried fruit (suggest cranberries and/or apricots)

2 sticks + 3 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter

1 cup whole cream

2 – 3 tablespoons sugar for dusting prior to baking

Mix sugar, AP flour, cake flour, baking powder and salt on low speed with a blender until just incorporated. Add butter, increasing speed, and blending until the butter is “mealy”. Add the fruit and mix only until it starts to clump. Slowly incorporate the cream. Mix until combined, but do not over mix. Roll out on a lightly floured surface to 1″ thickness. Cut using round or square pastry cutters or using a chef’s knife. Arrange on a baking sheet and sprinkle with a little extra sugar. Bake at 350 F for 12 to 15 minutes. (Note: The scones can be made ahead, frozen, and baked as needed). Serve warm from the oven.

The Morehead Inn

112 E. Morehead Street

Charlotte, NC 28204

(704) 376-3356

www.moreheadinn.com

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Savoring Savannah One Step at a Time

The San Bernadino Omelette at J. Christopher's in Savannah, GA

Getting to know a beautiful, old city anew is a little bit like falling in love, I think. First, there is the initial attraction, that pull from the gut that tells you this one is special and the overwhelming sense that this one will last. Then, there are all of those exciting yet nerve-wracking firsts – the first cup of coffee, the first moonlit walk,  the first romantic dinner, the first kiss – each one hopefully building upon the next to confirm a mutual and enduring adoration.

So, it is, that I find myself in the early stages of  getting to know and love Savannah. I spent most of last week there walking downtown and Forsythe Park (near my hotel) with my accommodating and sweet dog companion, Tann Mann. Together, we were getting reaquainted with this most lovely of cities. The goal was to get the lay of the land, study,  and find restaurants and eateries that looked interesting and good – worthy of inclusion in some upcoming books I’m writing about Savannah and her food scene. At times, it was hard to make headway. It seems Savannah is plum-full of friendly dog lovers.  There were times when I couldn’t advance three feet with little Tann Mann without being stopped, all ooh’s and ah’s, from the canine adoring crowds. Tann Mann, who has mastered the “high five,” started doing it spontaneously as the groups circled him, flailing his little paw greedily to hands that hadn’t even yet been extended.

As we walked the beautiful,  live oak and Spanish moss draped squares designed by Savannah’s visionary founder, James Edward Ogelthorpe, we literally inhaled the palpable history and soul of Savannah. And so, the first steps towards falling head over heels were taken.

All of this walking (as was part of the intent), builds an appetite, so we stopped to sate it, morning, noon, night and several times in-between. On this first visit, it was the breakfast and lunch stops that most impressed – ah, that first cup of coffee!

Clary’s Cafe is the kind of place that recalls the world as it used to be, an old-school diner where you can practically imagine spotting Andy Griffith downing some honey pecan waffles while he chats up Barney Fife about the latest smalltown scuffle. Real and delicious chunky house made corned beef hash prepared with slow cooked brisket ($9.99), blintzes, and hoppel poppel (scrambled eggs with Kosher salami and more), are all scrumptious nods to the cafe’s Jewish origins.  Inside rambles in true diner style with the requisite long counter and glass refrigerator with assorted pies, and outside metal tables and chairs invite with pale green and white laminate tablecloths – oh, and a doggy bowl full of cool, iced water.

A little further into the center of downtown, there are two neighboring hot breakfast/lunch spots that, like Clary’s, are well-worth a visit when appetite calls.  Both are on different “sides” (one is east, the other is west) of pretty, broad and inviting Liberty Street. J. Christopher’s serves heaping plates of breakfast goodness (see the San Bernadino omelette, $8.59,  pictured) with glowing, happy smiles from the super amiable service staff. The griddle puts out some seriously amazing cakes – from the stellar bluebarry crunchcakesl laced with granola and  berries to the chocolate chipcakes. There are many choices across many spectrums – skillets, burgers, sandwiches, crepes, omelettes – and many are spiced with Southwestern ingredients, such as the avocado and pico de gallo in the recommended San Bernadino omellete.

Soho South Cafe is a sunny, Bohemian haunt that is equal parts art studio and restaurant. This is “where food is an art,” afterall! There is truth in those logo words.  The chunky, creamy tomato basil soup ($3.75, cup, $5.50, bowl)  comes out steaming hot with a just-right dusting of fresh basil and the grilled salmon blt ($11.75)  served on grilled challah with a fresh herb mayonnaise, bacon, arugula and tomato is worth many return visits. Inside is delightful with artfully scattered benches, umbrellas, mirrors and paintings. Ah – the first kiss!

Looking forward to many more delightful firsts in lovely Savannah. We’ll keep you posted:)

Clary’s Cafe, 443 Abercorn Street, historic district, Savannah. (912) 233-0402. There is a second location at 4430 Habersham, (912) 351-0302.

Soho South Cafe, 12 W. Liberty Street, historic district, Savannah; (912) 233-1633. www.sohosouthcafe.com.

J. Christopher’s, 122 E. Liberty Street, historic district, Savannah; (912) 236-7494. www.jchristophers.com.

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