The Williamsburg Winery Offers a Smorgasbord of Culinary and Natural Delights
Just a few weeks into sampling some of Williamsburg’s many beautiful and delicious destinations, I’m fairly sure I found a new favorite that, based upon the pure joy of the first visit, will remain at the top of my destination list for a long time. And, I humbly suggest to all Williamsburg visitors and residents, it should be at the top of your list, too. Nestled on a 300-acre farm of rolling hills situated on a spot initially selected by colonists in 1607 for their settlement, it shimmers with pastoral, verdant beauty, and a palpable sense of history. It is a quiet and soothing place that features tours, wine tastings, special events, lodging, and two restaurants, Gabriel Archer Tavern and Cafe Provencal (located in Wedmore Place Inn). Forty of these acres are comprised of a vineyard producing multiple varietals of exceptional quality (I especially enjoyed the Viognier) and a half-acre garden and greenhouse which supply the restaurants with the goods to create their memorable farm- to-fork sourced fare.
I was visiting with a friend to celebrate his birthday with a Sunday brunch on what turned out to be a special occasion day in every way. The weather shined with radiant, crisp sunshine, and the first blush of autumn cool, which paired perfectly with a sumptuous, al fresco feast on Gabriel Archer Tavern’s grape vine-draped patio. It faces the wine tasting rooms and shop which look like they were imported directly from medieval Southern France. Indeed, I felt as if I were in France, or at least some other perfect world.
The servers proved themselves to be affable, efficient, and wholly knowledgeable of the food and wine, and how best to pair them. The menu is gutsy and rustic featuring sturdy BLT’s and burgers with locally sourced goodies like Billy Bread, Virginia country ham, and produce from the garden. Our meal’s beginning and end (sandwiched with blue crab cakes and a crab bisque) were the best, I thought, and the two dishes that lingered with me the longest, five days and counting now. The country platter is an ample offering of country pate, dried sausage, toasted bistro bread, and Edward’s Virginia ham; salty, buttery, and exquisite on the toasts with house made lingonberry jam or chunky, tangy country mustard. Dessert, which arrived with a sparkling candle, and happy birthday song from three servers (and eventually the entire patio of guests), was a frothy vanilla shake layered with an airy, mocha mousse, and a savory, dark chocolate and bourbon laced brownie crumble at the bottom. Get thee to the winery!
Speaking of Frothy Deliciousness….
The brownie crumble-meets-mocha mousse-meets fresh vanilla ice cream shake, reminded me of a similar dessert that’s especially fitting for the upcoming Labor Day holiday and unofficial end of summer. And, I can share the recipe. This Deep-Purple Cherry and Blackberry Milkshake recipe comes from my cookbook, Mashed – Beyond the Potato (Gibbs Smith), which features the last bursts of hot summer fruits. Fresh sweet cherries and blackberries simmer together briefly with orange juice, vanilla seeds, and honey to form a luscious compote that would be delicious served over ice cream or yogurt, or, as it is here, blended with ice cream to create deep-purple, frothy, and irresistible milkshakes. Serve in tall glasses with straws and garnish with a fresh cherry and a few blackberries. The compote can be made a few days ahead, stored covered in the refrigerator and blended at the last minute. The shake recipe needs to be made in 2 batches to accommodate a standard blender size and will make 4 generous shakes. Repeat to use the entire compote recipe and create 8 shakes.
Deep-Purple Cherry and Blackberry Milkshakes
(Recipe yields 2 cups compote, enough for 8 milkshakes)
For the compote:
1 cup sweet cherries, pitted and halved
2 1/2 cups fresh blackberries
1 fresh vanilla pod, halved vertically, seeds removed by scraping with a paring knife (discard pod)
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 teaspoon real vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon honey
For the shakes:
1 cup cooled compote
1/2 cup whole milk
3 cups best-quality vanilla ice cream
For the compote, place the cherries, blackberries, vanilla seeds, orange juice, vanilla, salt, and honey in a medium saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium high, reduce to medium low, and cook for 20 minutes, uncovered, until the fruit has broken down into tender chunks. Mash briefly with a fork or manual, hand-held potato masher. Pour into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate to cool for at least 1 hour or overnight. Prepare the shakes in 2 batches, placing the compote, milk and ice cream in a blender, and process until smooth and frothy. Serve immediately.
Bon appetit! Wishing everyone who celebrates a happy and safe Labor Day weekend. Special blessings to all of those dealing with Hurricane Dorian. Be safe.
Fondly, Holly and Rocky
Classic Egg Salad Sandwich Snacks with Cucumber & Red Onion Refrigerator Pickles
A few weeks ago, I was craving a simple egg salad sandwich, so I went to look for one where I had found them in the past at my neighborhood Harris Teeter. I was unable to find a single one. Confounded, I asked one of the staff where they were and he told me they were no longer making them. “Just not enough demand,” he said, slightly wistfully. Oh no, I thought. Not egg salad sandwiches, too? Innocent victims of changing times that are eradicating traditions I love, like civility, hand-written notes, and doors opened for ladies (and men), run over by fast food, rudeness, and road rage.
No way – I wasn’t prepared to stand idly by and watch this happen. When properly prepared, a barely mayonnaise bound, finely chopped flurry of egg salad sandwiched between soft, white bread is a cross between an English tea sandwich and a meal – a sandwich snack, if you will. Like few things in life and cooking, they’re best made with slightly older eggs (easier for peeling) and they’re very thrifty fare in contrast to their regal taste and texture bearing. So, as an ode to the not-so-humble egg salad sandwich, I whipped up a batch today in hopes of securing their eternity, at least in my recipe file and yours, too.
My favorite new Williamsburg farmer, Mr. Hermon Smith’s roadside stand is still stocked with late summer goodness – crispy, garden cukes, fresh red onions, and buttery Bibb lettuce. I brought some home with best quality soft, potato hamburger buns (or substitute Hawaiian King sliders or any other soft bread, including home made), sandwiched the egg salad between the bread, and topped it with tangy/sweet cuke and onion pickles, and crunchy lettuce sheaths. I had intended to eat the one pictured after the photo shoot and after I wrote this blog, but it didn’t make it. A casualty of my very own personal appetite for tradition and old-fashioned goodness, I succumbed and ate it right away. But, at least I ate it delicately, while nobody was looking. Unless you count Mr. Purrfect, Sid, and Rocky – pets in salivating egg salad waiting.
Creamy Chunky Egg Salad Sandwich Snacks with Cucumber & Red Onion Refrigerator Pickles Recipe
(Makes about 8 to 10 petite sandwich snacks)
For the refrigerator pickles:
1/4 of a large, red onion very finely sliced
1 medium garden cucumber, peeled, and sliced thinly at an angle
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
3 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar (or substitute red wine vinegar for a more acidic flavor effect)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional but a REALLY nice addition)
For the egg salad:
Cooking the eggs:
6 room temperature eggs (save the fresh-from-the-hen-house eggs for another use, one to two week old eggs best here)
Enough water to cover by an inch + 1 teaspoon Champagne vinegar (or substitute another vinegar)
To finish the salad:
Finely chopped, peeled eggs
2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar (or substitute red wine vinegar for a more acidic flavor effect)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons Duke mayonnaise (or substitute Hellman’s, no Miracle Whip, please)
1/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
To compile the sandwiches:
Eight soft white bread hamburger buns or sliders
Eight pieces fresh, cleaned Bibb lettuce
Method:
For the pickles, combine all of the ingredients in a Tupperware or sealed container and shake gently to combine. Cover and refrigerate a minimum of 3 hours and up to 24 hours before using. (Note – you will have some left-over. They’re a delicious salad/side on their own, are fabulous over poached salmon, and would even be delicious finely chopped and folded into the egg salad or deviled eggs. A great summer time staple – I have them in the fridge almost all season long).
Place the eggs gently in a large saucepan and cover up to an inch over with tap water. Add the vinegar. Bring up to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat and let stand exactly 20 minutes. Drain and cover with cold water and 1 cup of ice cubes. Let stand five minutes. Drain and place in a shallow dish lined with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel. Refrigerate at least one hour and up to 2 days before making the egg salad. To peel, crack each egg on all sides against cutting board or work surface. Peel under running water, breaking through the membrane between the egg and the shell will make this task easier. The steps previously taken also will make the peeling process more enjoyable.
Slice the eggs thinly with a chef’s knife and cut through repeatedly, as cutting up parsley or fine herbs, until it’s fine, the size of very small, square peas. Combine in a bowl with the vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, salt and pepper. Line the bottom of each sandwich with a dry piece of fresh lettuce. Top with 3 or 4 heaping tablespoons of egg salad (resist the urge to over-fill), top with three or four cucumber pickles and onions, lightly dried with paper towel. Finish with the bun top and serve immediately, or chill for up to an hour, covered with a very lightly dampened paper towel before serving.
Here’s to tradition!
Bon appetit, Holly and Rocky
A Fresh Take on an Old Friend
No matter how wonderful, perfect, or beautiful a person, place (i.e. Charleston), job, relationship, or just about anything starts out, it’s easy to take any of these for granted and fail to really see or recognize why you fell in love with them in the first place. Stress, rushing, bad attitude and plain old not stopping to smell the roses can take its toll on perspective. As wonderful as the last two years have been in my life, they have been very busy. So busy, I was starting to feel grumpy and rushed about too many things, including the city I fell in love with at first sight and have called home for nearly twenty years. Recognizing this, I made a personal vow to take some time to recharge my spirit, mind, soul, take better care of my health, and more time with family, friends and my pets.
Nearly two months into my self-prescribed recharge initiative, I’ve lost seven pounds, am sleeping better than ever, feeling extra creative and productive, and enjoying life and Charleston with renewed vigor. The other day, while walking down East Bay Street near Broad, the morning sun lovingly cast upon the mostly 19th-century roof lines, it seemed as if I had never seen them, really seen them, in their purest and most tangible form as I did at that moment. Later that same week, a friend I haven’t seen in thirty years came to town for a visit. Turns out, Deb and I are in the same place; re-assessing our lives and priorities. She’s looking for potential new places to live (at least part time), so thought she’d give Charleston a whirl. Naturally, I found myself wanting to show Charleston off, and in a most unexpected and delicious turn of events, ended up with a renewed appreciation for my hometown.
Friday morning began with a brisk walk on the beach with my dog Rocky and a spin by Bowen’s Island restaurant to show Deb the tumbledown seafood shack that embodies Charleston and especially Folly Beach with mollusk and hush puppy aplomb. She spied something I never had before, Charleston Outdoor Adventures and kayak tours. I’d never been on a kayak and had never even known about this location for taking them So, we signed up! I felt as excited as a kid on Christmas Eve. Next stop, was a walking tour downtown, and lunch at one of my personal favorites, Little Jack’s Tavern. I felt compelled to introduce Deb to the justifiably famous Little Jack’s Tavern Burger and the cool vibes of this neat little cosmopolitan spot with cheerful Charleston charm. All juicy and packed with flavor and glazed with its signature, secret sauce, it somehow seemed to taste better than ever as we laughed our way through thirty years of memories, some shared and some lived individually and shared over the meal and throughout the weekend.
A warm summer Friday night for two baseball fans seemed like a fitting way to wrap the afternoon at Joe Riley Baseball Park for some all American fun and (as Deb was hoping) a possible Bill Murray sighting. Well, the latter didn’t happen, but a magnificent pink and purple and blue cotton candy sunset did over the marshes at the rear of the park and we watched the likes of players with names like Gage Cunning (fodder for my novel’s lead character’s name) smash the ball around the park and mascots bumping into each other and acting silly. Beer and brisket sandwiches provided sustenance for our bellies, while the charming little park, feel-good sports fans, a rocking fireworks display, and witty banter fed our souls.
Saturday arrived in a flash and I was up before dawn preparing the our kayak tour with Charleston Outdoor Adventures. A quick tutorial with our handsome guide Josh and we were in the saltwater estuary waters behind Folly Beach. A rocky glide across open water went fairly well until our group of five kayak pros and kayak virgin me tried to negotiate our way through a narrow, serpentine slip of water. I felt like I was leaving an aorta and entering a capillary as my poor boat lined itself up horizontally in the flow, nose and tail firmly plugged into the marsh grasses. I was motionless, breathless, and slightly scared. None the less, I was not too proud to flail my oar in the air and meekly cry “help” to the group three turns farther down the path. Josh arrived like the kayak savior he was, pulling out a large hook and line to attach to the tip of my kayak. “Oh my God, you’re not my own personal kayak tugboat are you, Josh?” Yes, was the response, but don’t worry it wasn’t the first time.
Seriously humbled and blushed with shame and exertion, eventually I was able to figure out how to negotiate the rudder pedals and re-joined the group in the open waters, just in time to catch a grounded old shrimping boat and a pod of dolphins. Josh explained that female dolphins (what we were witnessing) typically live sixty years, while males live only fifty. The pristine world where we were watching them play was custom made for their lifestyle and playground, largely created and protected by the barrier islands that surround Charleston. It was a morning I’ll not soon forget and my arm and shoulder muscles, three days later, still possess significant recall.
Later that day, we headed back into town for a ride with Ross of Palmetto Carriage through the French Quarter and lower peninsula. Probably my 20th carriage tour, I learned some things I didn’t know, such as how a boat had smashed into two houses on East Bay during the hurricane of 1911, completely destroying them, and reminded myself again how beautiful the old mansions look in the ebbing light of day, cool afternoon breezes refreshing our spirits anew. There was more on our robust to-do list that got done, such as a “sip and stroll” to The Pavilion Bar, Anson, and The Blind Tiger, and breakfast at The Hominy Grill Sunday morning, enjoying what surely must be the best shrimp and grits and she crab soup in town, if not the entire world.
Three nights, two and a half days, several great meals, a massive lightning storm, Thursday night book club with delicious food and great gals, even more great adventures, and I don’t know how many laughs later, I’d re-found two friends. A Charleston I had partly forgotten and a friendship of thirty years refreshed. And, Deb made a new friend in my little puppy, Rocky Rocken Roll, who practically would not let her go home.
Lesson learned – remember to savor life and take no moments, no place, or no one for granted. And, when you come to or visit Charleston, savor all she has to offer.
Bon appetit!
Holly
If it’s possible to still be a Daddy’s girl at 52, then I’m as guilty as the six year-old that wears him like a badge of honor on my heart, then as I do now. He enforced strict discipline and never tolerated lies he was somehow able to sniff out like a dog on the hunt. He taught unconditional love at every turn, returning from arduous week-long business trips, always ready to give his energy to his pack of four children and our mother on weekends. These often involved long rides on our horses, tag football, and summer evenings spent watching fireflies on our country front porch. When we were really lucky, these nights ended with him recanting imagined tales of Cookie to all of us, under a “tent” in the living room. And, when the summer heat really turned on, Saturday afternoons meant cherished and rare trips to Dairy Queen for ice cream. I favored the soft serve vanilla twist cones dipped in confetti peanut/candy, but sometimes one of us, Dad included, went whole hog and indulged in a hot chocolate sauce banana split. So, even now, I can’t think of ice cream sundaes without thinking of my Dad.
Time may have softened the lines of these memories, erasing the tears from an overly tired child or admonishments from a frustrated Dad, but at their core, they remain true to the man he was and is. The best Dad I could ever hope to have and my eternal night in shining armor, still shining at 84 years of age. The recipe that follows is an adult version of a very, very indulgent sundae that far surpasses DQ’s confetti candy and moves into the realm of butter, mashed bananas, brown sugar, walnuts and rum, though the latter can be wholly omitted without really missing a beat. From my cookbook Mashed – Beyond the Potato (Gibbs Smith), it might be just the right treat for your Dad this Father’s Day.
Mashed Bananas Foster Sundaes
(Yields 8 sundaes)
The classic brown sugar, butter and rum sauce wrapped around flash-cooked and flambeed ripe bananas was created by Chef Paul Blange at Brennan’s restaurant in New Orleans in 1951. The dark brown sauce is just the right foil for the sweetness of bananas. Lightly mashed and served warm over commercial vanilla ice cream with a crumble of chopped walnuts, it is sublime and comes together in minutes. To flambe, carefully tip the saute pan to meet your stovetop gas flame, or quickly hit with a lighter flame. The flambe is important to cook off the burn of the alcohol and increase flavor, although the rum can be omitted altogether. This is best served straight from the pan, but will store refrigerated and covered for a day or two. Reheat before serving over a few scoops of ice cream.
Recipe
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 8 tablespoons
1/3 cup lightly packed dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon real vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
4 ripe bananas, peeled, halved vertically, and halved again horizontally
1/3 cup dark rum (optional)
1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
1 1/2 quarts best quality vanilla ice cream
In a large saute pan, melt the butter over medium heat and add the brown sugar, nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, canilla, and salt. Cook together over medium-low heat, stirring, about 2 minutes. Carefully add the bananas and gently stir to coat, cooking for 3 minutes. Add the rum, stir to combine, and flambe, standing back to avoid the flame. Gently mash into large chunks using a manual masher or wooden spoon. Remove from heat and cool slightly for 1 – 2 minutes. Serve warm in individual bowls over 2 or 3 scoops of ice cream. Garnish with a tablespoon or so of chopped walnuts. Serve immediately.
Happy Father’s Day!
Recipe and Cookbook Giveaway
Here it is already. Time to tuck away the white shorts and Keds, pull out the grill, and celebrate the symbolic final hoopla of summer – Labor Day. When I was a girl living on our bucolic Massachusetts farm, it was a weekend to look forward to. Jammed with horse riding, touch football, and lots of burgers and dogs cooked (usually over-cooked) but always cooked with love by my darling Dad. For me, too, it was infused with the anticipation of returning to school. I loved going back to that elementary school, the smell of the paper and books, the sound of a pencil writing cursive on a piece of lined paper on a hard desk, even the slightly sweet, soggy spaghetti and meat sauce in the cafeteria. I remember laying out my first day of school outfit on my bed, right down to the knee socks and polished Mary Jane’s. Those were heady days!
This Labor Day weekend has a slightly heightened sense of joy, like back in those school days. My latest cookbook, Mashed – Beyond the Potato (Gibbs Smith) will be released Tuesday. Available in bookstores near you and online, practically by the time you read this. The recipe that follows is one of my favorites, because it is packed with one of my favorite summer foods – summer squash and zucchini. Still beautiful in South Carolina this time of year, they’re reaching the end of their season elsewhere and soon will here, too. Though this dish requires just a bit more work than placing the squash on a grill, it’s a lovely do-ahead that will impress and pair with anything from a steak to barbecue.
Cheddar Two-Summer-Squash Mash
Yields 6 servings
Summer squash, slightly sweet and squeaks-in-your-teeth fresh at peak summer season, is one of my favorite summer treats. Often, I’ll saute either yellow summer squash or zucchini in a little olive oil wiht some red onion, finish it with a sprinkle of fresh basil and grated Parmesan, and call it a summer’s night. However, the two squashes marry beautifully together in this beautiful mash casserole, which resonates with the lemony freshness of thyme and squash flavor. The texture is airy and light, almost mousse-like, topped with a buttery panko bread crumb crunch. While you can substitute unseasoned traditional bread crumbs, panko celivers a crunch edge and it’s really worth having in your pantry at all times. The casserole is delicious hot, warm, or even room temperature.
2 medium zucchini, ends trimmed and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) dice, about 3 cups (370 g)
3 medium yellow summer squash, ends trimmed and cut into 1-inch (2.5-cm) dice, about 4 cups (495 g)
Water
3 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt, divided
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 cup (240 ml) whole milk sour cream
2 cups (240 g) grated mild cheddar cheese
1 small shallot, finely chopped, about 2 tablespoons
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
Pinch of ground nutmeg
3 tablespoon unsalted butter, divided
1 cup panko bread crumbs or unseasoned traditional bread crumbs
Pinch of ground black pepper and kosher or sea salt
Preheat oven to 350° F (175° C).
Place the zucchini and summer squash in a medium saucepan. Pour in enough water to barely cover and add 2 teaspoons salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, until the squash is very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain very well in a colander, gently pressing out any excess water, and return to the pan.
Mash with a manual masher until the squash is chunky smooth. With a wooden spoon, blend in the thyme, sour cream, cheese, shallot, pepper, remaining salt, egg, and nutmeg. Pour into a medium (2-quart / 2-l) casserole that has been greased with 1 tablespoon of the butter, spreading with spoon to even the top.
Melt the remaining butter in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the panko and seasoning and toss to coat. Brown the crumbs to a golden brown, being careful to toss and avoid burning. Spread the bread crumbs evenly over the top.
Bake for 45 minutes, uncovered, or until bubbly and golden brown. Rest 10 minutes before serving and garnish with some fresh thyme sprigs. This makes a lovely meal with a green salad and fresh bread and butter. The casserole can be assembled ahead, refrigerated, and baked just before serving.
Cookbook Giveaway!
I told you what I love about Labor Day. Now’s your turn to tell me what you love about this holiday and transition from summer into fall. Favorite memories, foods, thoughts – they’re all welcome. Please leave your comment here and I’ll pick a winner on Tuesday, book release day.
I look forward to hearing from you and please have a safe, happy and delicious holiday!
Holly