Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

recipes

1 2 3 10

Super Bowl Well-Seasoned

A Super Bowl of Mexican Flavor Feeds Football in a Big Way 

When I was twelve and The Super Bowl was in its nascent 11th year, my sister and I were invited to assist our neighbor, Mrs. Corcoran, to help orchestrate her annual Super Bowl party. This was a big deal for me in a lots of ways. Firstly, it was a big promotional step up in status and income from my $1 per-hour regular babysitting gigs with her three very sweet children. Those evenings were mostly spent in front of the TV, monitoring the children (just a few years younger than me) and making sure they got to bed safely and on time. But, for this, the whole neighborhood of adults (and then some) would be there. Our job was to work in her enormous kitchen with a sweeping view of The Indian River serving the likes of things I’d never seen or heard of before; real guacamole, real salsa, nachos, and more. This was a virtual culinary rite of passage for me.  Mrs. Corcoran was my first exposure to “gourmet” cuisine as I knew it, and I’ll never forget her for it. Or the fat, apres-party cash stash that fueled that spring’s sixth grade wardrobe shopping spree.

In the early years of The Super Bowl,  most American’s awareness (or at least mine) of gourmet didn’t go much beyond the frozen food aisle or occasional fresh pineapple at Christmas. We’ve all grown up a lot since then, but in some ways not. Fast food came, went, and came back again, and still hangs around in the form of prepared queso, salsas and chips.  Twenty years since culinary school and nine cookbooks later, even I can accept a little bit of these ingredients aptly tucked into a delicious bowl of football-friendly fare such as the Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake recipe that follows.  (Adapted from Mashed – Beyond the Potato, Gibbs Smith, 2016, by Holly Herrick. Photograph by Alexandra DeFurio). This is delicious, easy, and unforgettable.

Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake

(Yields 8 to 10 servings)

A bit of help using canned black beans, tortilla chips, queso sauce, and salsa from your grocer’s shelves brings this filling, crunchy, cheesy, spicy casserole of Mexican goodness together in fairly short order. It’s perfect for game day or any time you’ve got a hungry crowd to feed on your hands.

Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake from Mashed – Beyond the Potato by Holly Herrick (Gibbs Smith, 2016). Photo by Alexandra DeFurio.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 poblano chile pepper, seeded and finely diced

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced

1/2 red onion, peeled and finely diced

1 stalk celery, finely diced

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

4 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and finely diced

2 (15.5 ounce) cans black beans, well-drained

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 cup medium tomato salsa

1/2 cup low-sodium chicken stock

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped unsweetened 90 percent dark chocolate

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided

1 1/2 cups queso cheese

Method:

Preheat oven to 325F. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan. Add the poblano, jalapeno, onion, celery, salt, pepper, cumin, oregano, and garlic: stir to coat. Cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, until softened. Add the black beans, vinegar, salsa, and stock. Stir then simmer over medium heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add the chocolate and honey. Continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes.

Mash with a hand-held masher until chunky smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Grease a 2-quart casserole dish with the butter. Using a spatula, evenly spread the black bean mixture into the casserole. Top with 1 cup cheddar cheese. Top this with the crushed tortilla chips, and then top with the remaining cheddar cheese. Bake, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and top with an even layer of queso cheese. Bake for another 20 m inutes. Serve hot, fresh from the oven, with a dollop of sour cream and additional salsa or queso, if desired.

May the best team win! Have a super Super Bowl.

Bon appetit,

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick Holly and Rocky

 

Share

Christmas Buttermilk Grits & Apple Loaves

A few weeks ago, a friend and colleague sent me a generous bundle of white and yellow stone-ground grits (and some bread & butter pickles, cornmeal, and house made biscuits for my dog Rocky) from The Old Mill, one of the last remaining water-powered mills left in the country. He promised me they would be unlike any other grits I’ve ever had, and he was right. The water that powers the mill comes from the Little Pigeon River in TN and grinds the organic corn between flint granite stones that mold it to a just-right texture, leaving the entire grain intact, and the grits with a fresh, nutty aroma as well-suited to a bowl of the stuff as they are these sweet little cakes, perfect for Christmas and the holidays.

In creating a Christmas recipe worthy of these stellar corn nuggets, I wavered between savory and sweet, but ultimately settled on these loaves, enhanced with the bittersweet edge of Granny Smith apples, tang and richness of buttermilk and sour cream, and just the right kiss of butter and honey for a festive flavor and color glow. The end result was very pleasing, if not just a bit unconventional. I added some finely chopped fresh rosemary which added pretty green flecks and a pine aroma for Christmas spirit, but rosemary may not be for everyone on your holiday baking list.  Because I studied in France where the reigning motto (for women and food) is “the smaller it is, the cuter it is” and because individual portions make for nice presentations, I baked them in my individual loaf pans, but a standard loaf pan is fine, too. It will just take longer to cook.  I really enjoy the loaves refrigerated, sliced and toasted, and served warm with coffee, a special kind of grits and apples coffee cake, especially nice for the holidays in front of a blazing fire. A dollop of freshly whipped cream would be a nice touch, too.

Christmas Buttermilk Grits and Apple Loaves beautifully wrapped for holiday entertaining joy.

Christmas Buttermilk Grits & Apple Loaves

(Makes 4 small loaf pans or 1 standard loaf tin)

For the apples:

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Juice of 1/2 lemon (about 2 teaspoons)

2 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, halved, cored, and thinly sliced

3/4 cup white Old Mill grits

3/4 cup yellow Old Mill grits

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup whole sour cream

1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted

To top loaves before going in oven:

Drizzle of honey (about 1/4 cup total), 4 teaspoons cold butter

For garnish and pan prep:

Powdered sugar, fresh rosemary spritg, flour, room temperature butter

METHOD

Preheat oven to 375F.  To prep the pans (which is important to prevent sticking)  butter the loaf pan(s) generously with a solid coat of butter and dust well with flour, getting all the corners and crevices. Tap out any excess flour.

For the apples, melt the brown sugar, butter, and lemon juice together in a large saute pan over medium heat.  Add the apples and stir to coat. Reduce heat to medium and cook gently, for about 4 minutes, until they’re just beginning to soften. Remove from heat and set aside.

Combine the dry ingredients (white grits, yellow grits, flour, sugar, salt, and rosemary) in a large bowl, whisking well to blend evenly.  In a smaller bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, sour cream, and melted butter.  Stir the wet ingredients into the dried ingredients with a wooden spoon, stirring gently to just combine (Note: this is essentially a quick bread so do not over stir).

For individual loaf pans, ladle one cup of the batter into the bottom of each of the 4 pans, top with 1/2 cup even layer of apples, top with another 1 cup ladle of the batter, another 1/2 cup layer of the apples, and top each evenly with any remaining batter. Drizzle honey over the top of each and a pat of the cold butter on each.  For a full loaf pan, pour one third of the batter into the pan, top with half of the apples, and repeat until finished. Top evenly with honey and butter pats. Place the pan(s) on a baking sheet and bake for 35 – 40 minutes (individual) or 45 – 50 (standard) loaf pans, or until a knife comes out clean from the center of the cake(s).  Cool completely and turn the cakes out of the pans and turn top side-up.  Dust generously with powdered sugar to decorate and garnish (if desired) with fresh rosemary sprigs.

Cakes getting ready to go into the oven.

Cakes, perfectly golden brown and fresh from the oven.

I’m looking at my calendar and realizing we’re just two weeks from the close of this year and the debut of the next.  I hope your year has been filled with blessings and much deliciousness for the body and soul and that 2020 will bring more of the same. Until we get there, wishing you and yours the joy of the season, including baking and cooking for those you love.  Thank you Jimmy and The Old Mill for the beautiful grits and gifts. You can find yours online at The Old Mill.   Happiest of tidings!

Fondly,

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

Holly and Rocky

 

 

Share

Chowder’s On!

I grew up in New England, where clam and fish chowder are as common as hard “Southie” accents, Patriot’s fans, and thick corduroy slacks. But, there is nothing common about finding a good, and especially an excellent, fish chowder.   That’s because, similar to their smoother, silkier and equally delicious French cream soup bisque cousins, it’s far too easy to take short cuts on quality of the ingredients and over-dosing thickening agents to make the chowder go a little bit further for less. This happens the most in bad restaurants, not in most New England home kitchens, where pride is a principal ingredient when it comes to cooking time-perfected regional specialties like chowder – or “chow-dah.”

Although it may slightly tweak stubborn Yankee pride, chowder and bisque have some French etymology and classical technique in common. Chowder goes back to the French word “cauldron,” a kind of pot in which it is prepared.  Bisques are simultaneously flavored and thickened by the shells of the crustaceans they showcase, from shrimp to lobster. The liquid is then strained and further thickened often with rice or with a traditional roux prepared with equal parts butter and flour (my preferred method). They are then embellished with delicate, flavor enhancing vegetables, pureed and finished with cream, more butter, often sherry or vermouth, and the meat of the shellfish or fish (and sometimes vegetables) at their flavor core. Chowder also has a flavor base of fish stock and a thickening agent of roux. The main difference is that the fish is left chunky along with vegetables; almost always potatoes, celery, onions, and sometimes leeks and carrots. It is also finished with milk and or cream and butter, and boy, oh boy, is it sublime. When properly paired, it yields some of the sweetest soup nectar imaginable.

My neighbor described this just that way, “One of the best soups I’ve ever had in my life.” Oui! It is simple. Take care in the timing and size of the vegetables and fish so they will be tender yet still hold their shape. I used frozen wild Alaskan salmon and frozen wild Atlantic cod. In this kind of dish, frozen works just as well as fresh and the texture holds up slightly better, too.  Stir and taste with care and I promise you, this chowder will keep you spooning for more, with its dual bisque delicacy and chunky chowder flare. Serve very hot in stout, shallow bowls and garnish with a dash of finely chopped fresh parsley and crumbled butter crackers or Saltines to stay true to Yankee form.

Slip of the Bisque Cod and Salmon Chowder

(Makes 8 generous portions)

Pretty in pink and green, this creamy, silky chowder will recall a delicate French bisque, but with the sturdiness of a chunky New England chowder.

Ingredients:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 large leek, tops of green leaves removed to one inch above white base and well-cleaned(*), finely chopped

2 celery stalks, well cleaned, cut in half, and finely chopped

2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning

1/2 cup Sauvignon Blanc or another dry white wine or dry vermouth

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

One quart (4 cups) best-quality, no sodium seafood stock

3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, well-scrubbed, skin-on and cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 3 cups)

2 cups whole milk

8 ounces fresh or frozen (thawed) best-quality salmon, cut into 1-inch cubes

8 ounces fresh or frozen (thawed) best-qualit cod, cut into 1-inch cubes

For finishing:

1/2 cup Half & Half

1/2 cup whole milk (as needed)

2 or 3 tablespoons unsalted butter (not required)

(*To more easily clean leeks, rinse them thoroughly in cold water once they have been diced, and strain. Repeat as needed to remove all grit).

In a large, sturdy pot, melt the 6 tablespoons butter over medium heat. When melted and just bubbling, add the onion, leek, celery, salt, pepper and Old Bay. Stir, cooking gently over medium heat for five minutes or until just softened. Add the wine or vermouth. Increase heat to high and cook off until almost fully reduced. Reduce heat to medium low. Drizzle in the flour evenly over the top of the ingredients in the pot, stir thoroughly with a wooden spoon to incorporate and cook for one minute. Add the seafood stock, whisking aggressively to incorporate and break up any flour clots. Increase the heat to high, bring to a boil, and reduce to a simmer over medium. Add the potatoes and 2 cups whole milk.  Again, bring to a gentle simmer and keep it there, for about 25 minutes, or until the celery, onions and potatoes are fork tender but still holding their shape. Add the salmon, cod, Half & Half and additional whole milk (if needed, thickness should thick to a spoon, but still be loose enough to sip). Cook an additional 10 minutes at a simmer, stirring very gently,  until the fish is opaque and cooked through, but still holding its shape. For added richness, stir in a few pats of butter before serving very hot individually or in a tureen. It’s beautiful garnished with parsley, green onions, and those Yankee-loving salty crackers.

Bon appetit and enjoy fall, if it ever gets here. Even in Virginia, the cooler temps have been a bit fickle, but the leaves are turning, which is probably what got me thinking about chowder in the first place. After all, you can take the girl out of New England, but you can’t take the New England out of the girl.

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

Fondly, Holly and Rocky

 

Share

Squashing the Most Out of Late Summer Flavor

The Tuesday after Labor Day, which happened to be unusually warm here in Williamsburg, I visited my local grocer to find fall squash situated front and center in the produce section. A colorful, beautifully arranged display of delicata, pumpkins,  acorn squash, hubbard squash and more, it instantly activated my appetite for the rich, nutty flavors these beauties produce when roasted and pureed or function as colorful, flavorful nuggets in seasonal soups. Just beyond, I spied the zucchini and summer squash I’ve been enjoying all season, and was not, and am still not ready to relinquish. I brought home three very fresh, deep green zucchini, and decided to put them to use in a fall-ish spin on a late summer produce favorite. We’re lucky that many summer favorites, including summer squash and tomatoes, enjoy a long growing season and often staggered plantings, so we have them fresh for many months.

Zucchini and tomatoes got me thinking about sauce, and the addition of pasta and beef put me in a more substantial, goulash frame of mind. Traditionally an Eastern European dish tracing back largely to Hungary and seasoned liberally with paprika, this version takes on a more Mediterranean vibe with the zucchini, basil, oregano, and garlic used in the dish. It’s wonderfully easy and prepared all in one pot in less than thirty minutes. The addition of pasta at the end both thickens the sauce and flavors the pasta, and eliminates the need for yet one more pot in your to-be-washed-sink. I had pretty, mini-farfalle in the house, but macaroni would work great, and gluten-free types can skip the pasta all together. It’s a hearty dish that celebrates very much summer, while tempting the beginnings of fall appetites, much like the winter squash I saw at the market. Enjoy this season’s duality while you can!

Summer Squash Goulash

(Makes 8 generous servings)

This tasty, celebration of late summer flavors is a lighter take on traditional goulash, but is hearty and satisfying enough to invite dreams of fall’s sturdier fare.

 

1 pound ground beef (80 % lean/20 % fat)

1 medium onion, finely diced

2 medium/large zucchini, cut into 1/4″ dice, about 2 cups

3 large cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped

2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves (or use double the quantity fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped)

2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves (or use double the quantity fresh oregano leaves, finely chopped)

2 Tablespoons best quality extra virgin olive oil

1 cup good quality dry red wine – suggest Pinot Noir

28 ounce can whole plum tomatoes, lightly crushed, and their juices

2 Tablespoons ketchup

2 cups mini-farfalle (or substitute another pasta shape)

1/4 cup water (as needed)

Fresh basil and grated Parmesan to garnish

Heat a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pot over medium high heat. Break up the beef and crumble into the pan. Stir, two or three times and cook until just browned. Remove from the heat. Drain and discard excess fat. Return the browned beef to the pan. Add the onion, zucchini, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, and olive oil. Stir to coat, reduce to medium, and cook until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, increase heat to high, and reduce by half. Return to a simmer over medium. Add the ketchup and pasta, stirring well. Bring up to a simmer over medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is just al dente, about 10 minutes depending on the pasta used.  Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve individually or in a large serving bowl, garnishing liberally with fresh basil and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Bon appetit!

Remember to write me with any comments or questions and keep those Thursday dinners  in mind. They’re coming up fast! Next up is October 24. September is sold out. I would love to see you at my table.

Thursday Dinners with Holly

 

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

 

Fondly, Holly and Rocky

 

 

Share

Classic Egg Salad Sandwich Revival

Classic Egg Salad Sandwich Snacks with Cucumber & Red Onion Refrigerator Pickles

A few weeks ago, I was craving a simple egg salad sandwich, so I went to look for one where I had found them in the past at my neighborhood Harris Teeter. I was unable to find a single one. Confounded, I asked one of the staff where they were and he told me they were no longer making them. “Just not enough demand,” he said, slightly wistfully. Oh no, I thought. Not egg salad sandwiches, too?  Innocent victims of changing times that are eradicating traditions I love, like civility, hand-written notes, and doors opened for ladies (and men), run over by fast food, rudeness, and road rage.

No way – I wasn’t prepared to stand idly by and watch this happen. When properly prepared, a barely mayonnaise bound, finely chopped flurry of egg salad sandwiched between soft, white bread is a cross between an English tea sandwich and a meal – a sandwich snack, if you will. Like few things in life and cooking, they’re best made with slightly older eggs (easier for peeling) and they’re very thrifty fare in contrast to their regal taste and texture bearing. So, as an ode to the not-so-humble egg salad sandwich, I whipped up a batch today in hopes of securing their eternity, at least in my recipe file and yours, too.

My favorite new Williamsburg farmer, Mr. Hermon Smith’s roadside stand is still stocked with late summer goodness – crispy, garden cukes, fresh red onions, and buttery Bibb lettuce. I brought some home with best quality soft, potato hamburger buns (or substitute Hawaiian King sliders or any other soft bread, including home made), sandwiched the egg salad between the bread, and topped it with tangy/sweet cuke and onion pickles, and crunchy lettuce sheaths.    I had intended to eat the one pictured after the photo shoot and after I wrote this blog, but it didn’t make it. A casualty of my very own personal appetite for tradition and old-fashioned goodness, I succumbed and ate it right away. But, at least I ate it delicately, while nobody was looking. Unless you count Mr. Purrfect, Sid, and Rocky – pets in salivating egg salad waiting.

Classic Old-Fashioned Egg Salad Sandwich Snack with Refrigerator Red Onion and Cucumber Pickles

Creamy Chunky Egg Salad Sandwich Snacks with Cucumber & Red Onion Refrigerator Pickles Recipe

(Makes about 8 to 10 petite sandwich snacks)

For the refrigerator pickles:

1/4 of a large, red onion very finely sliced

1 medium garden cucumber, peeled, and sliced thinly at an angle

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

3 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons Champagne vinegar (or substitute red wine vinegar for a more acidic flavor effect)

1/2 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional but a REALLY nice addition)

For the egg salad:

Cooking the eggs:

6 room temperature eggs (save the fresh-from-the-hen-house eggs for another use, one to two week old eggs best here)

Enough water to cover by an inch + 1 teaspoon Champagne vinegar (or substitute another vinegar)

To finish the salad:

Finely chopped, peeled eggs

2 teaspoons Champagne vinegar (or substitute red wine vinegar for a more acidic flavor effect)

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons Duke mayonnaise (or substitute Hellman’s, no Miracle Whip, please)

1/4 teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

To compile the sandwiches:

Eight soft white bread hamburger buns or sliders

Eight pieces fresh, cleaned Bibb lettuce

Method:

For the pickles, combine all of the ingredients in a Tupperware or sealed container and shake gently to combine. Cover and refrigerate a minimum of 3 hours and up to 24 hours before using. (Note – you will have some left-over. They’re a delicious salad/side on their own, are fabulous over poached salmon, and would even be delicious finely chopped and folded into the egg salad or deviled eggs. A great summer time staple – I have them in the fridge almost all season long).

Place the eggs gently in a large saucepan and cover up to an inch over with tap water. Add the vinegar. Bring up to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat and let stand exactly 20 minutes. Drain and cover with cold water and 1 cup of ice cubes. Let stand five minutes. Drain and place in a shallow dish lined with a paper towel or clean kitchen towel. Refrigerate at least one hour and up to 2 days before making the egg salad. To peel, crack each egg on all sides against cutting board or work surface. Peel under running water, breaking through the membrane between the egg and the shell will make this task easier. The steps previously taken also will make the peeling process more enjoyable.

Slice the eggs thinly with a chef’s knife and cut through repeatedly, as cutting up parsley or fine herbs, until it’s fine, the size of very small, square peas. Combine in a bowl with the vinegar, mustard, mayonnaise, salt and pepper.  Line the bottom of each sandwich with a dry piece of fresh lettuce. Top with 3 or 4 heaping tablespoons of egg salad (resist the urge to over-fill), top with three or four cucumber pickles and onions, lightly dried with paper towel. Finish with the bun top and serve immediately, or chill for up to an hour, covered with a very lightly dampened paper towel before serving.

Here’s to tradition!

Bon appetit,  Holly and Rocky

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

Share
1 2 3 10
Latest from the Blog
Books
Never Miss a Post!

Sign up for my newsletter and never miss a post or give-away.