Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

Easter

Turning Over a New FIG Leaf

Recreating FIG’s Classic Arugula Salad at Home

When The Charleston Chef’s Table Cookbook (2009, Globe Pequot Press) and the “New” edition in 2018 were written and published, part of my intention as the author was to give readers the opportunity to relive their the broader memories and impressions of Charleston through a beautiful “coffee table” book, but also to give them the chefs’ tools to recreate their favorite dishes from some of her best restaurants when they returned home.

Never in a million years did I, and probably not most of you, anticipate the massive closures (hopefully for the short term) of not just Charleston’s restaurants, but many around the world due to corona virus disease.  It’s hard for me to think of so many  Mom & Pop eateries shuttered and sleeping, and even more so, Charleston’s eat-in restaurant delicacies denied to consumers, especially FIG’s.  This restaurant encapsulates everything that cooking should be – simple, pure, unfettered, streamlined. Everything here shimmers on the plates with freshness and restraint. Nothing is overdone here; everything is prepared perfectly. Chef Owner Mike Lata’s original local-meets-seasonal-and-simple credo, begun in 2003 when FIG opened, continues to shine in Executive Chef Jason Stanhope’s capable hands today.  This salad, prepared with seasonally fresh (right now!) arugula and only a few other ingredients – all top quality – is quintessentially FIG.

To follow is an excerpt from The New Charleston Chef’s Table Cookbook to help you recreate the salad at home. FIG is currently closed but, like so many, hopes to reopen soon. If you would like to help them sustain the restaurant and their staff click here to visit their GOFUNDME account which has been established to help the restaurant pay their employees during the time of the restaurant’s closure. Now, let’s dig into this simply amazing salad, which would be absolutely delicious at your home Easter table or for any fresh, spring feast.

FIG’S Classic Arugula Salad

(Serves 4 to 6)

James Beard Best Chef Southeast (2015) winner and FIG Executive Chef Jason Stanhope’s clean, pure, and exquisitely sourced culinary style is very compatible with the whole FIG mission. “There is a magic in restraint,” says a reflective Stanhope, who considers his high school/college wrestling and football pursuits and sadly, the passing of his father at a young age as the impetuses to what’s become an amazing career in food. “I took this crazy gamble after Dad’s death to go and gain traction (in my life) and attend Le Cordon Bleu. I completely fell in love with the sports-like aspect of team work, vision, being bigger than self,” he says, alluding to a quote from football great Vince Lombardi. As for FIG, everyone there coddles every step of the cooking and restaurant experience with every ounce of collective energy.”

His classic, simple arugula salad, dotted with crispy shallots and aged cheese, is a perfect reflection of Stanhope’s style. “We like to serve this salad on the larger side, a celebration of a few simple ingredients. All arugula is different so be sure to taste yours before seasoning and adjust accordingly – if it is heartier it might want more olive oil, it it’s already spicy you might back down on the pepper,” he advises.

Stanhope includes a few more tips for making your salad the best it can be at home. “An easy alternative to frying your own shallots is to buy a bag of crispy shallots from an Asian market. But they are simple to make and will keep well in an airtight container at room temperature. We use a Pecorino Canestrato from Goat.Sheep.Cow   but any hard, salty Italian cheese will work here. Using a micro-plane to grate the cheese yields a super fluffy pile that doesn’t weigh down the salad. For this salad, you can’t really have enough crispy shallots or cheese.”

Ingredients:

3 – 4 cups canola oil, for frying

3 large shallots

1/2 cup cornstarch

16 ounces arugula, gently washed and dried thoroughly

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil (we use domestic Arbequina)

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

4 – 6 ounces Pecorino Canestrato, or any hard, salty Italian cheese such as Grana Padano or parmesan

1 1/2 teaspoons coarse kosher or sea salt, or to taste

20 turns freshly cracked black pepper, or to taste

Method:

Fill a medium, heavy-bottomed pot about 2 inches deep with canola oil. (The oil will rise when you add the shallots so make sure the pot is less than halfway full). Using an insta-read or candy thermometer, heat oil to 275F. Line a plate with paper towels and set aside.

Peel shallots and slice on a mandolin (or carefully slice) into rings about 1/8-inch thick. Toss with cornstarch to coat and shake off the excess. When the oil is ready, fry the shallots until golden and crispy, about 12-15 minutes. Stir gently, from time to time. Remove from oil with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain. Season generously with salt.

Place arugula in a large bowl and gently toss with olive oil until glossy. Season with salt and black pepper. Drizzle in the lemon juice and divide generously among 4-6 plates. Using a microplane, finely grate the Pecorino over each salad. Top with crispy shallots and season to taste with freshly cracked black pepper.

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Bon appetit! Wishing you delicious cooking and safe living at home and an eventual return to patronizing the restaurants we all know and love.

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick Fondly,

Holly and Rocky

 

 

 

New Charleston Chefs Table book cover

 

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Clearly Consomme

The manuscript for my newest cookbook, The French Cook: Soups & Stews (Gibbs Smith, June, 2014) has been filed. Though not yet finished (photo shoots, edits, and design await), my months of soup recipe testing and writing have come to a close. I would by lying if I didn’t say it was a relief to have this book done, but I am also a little bit sad that the creation steps are behind me.  I’m elated with the cover which I just discovered this morning.  Here it is:

My very newest book baby, The French Cook: Soups & Stews, currently available for pre-order  on Amazon.

My very newest book baby, The French Cook: Soups & Stews, currently available for pre-order on Amazon.

I hope you like it, too. I am eager to see the new book when she’s done. Gibbs Smith and my editor and her design team always do such a wonderful job.

I want to share with you another little advance peek into the book’s content with the following (adapted) chapter front on consommes, the very last chapter I wrote.  A recipe for a simple and beautiful Beef Consomme with Mushrooms and Chives follows.

The inviting and elegant clarity of this soup makes it an excellent candidate for a special occasion or holiday, such as Easter.

 

Consomme

Consomme (prounced con-some-may) is the consummate soup. A darling of The Belle Epoque in 19th-century France (and elsewhere), it is a dainty soup that deserves to be served in pretty, petite bowls and demands polite sipping. Made from stocks that are clarified with egg whites and enriched with meat (or seafood) and vegetables, they become as clear as the Azur sea and can be “finished” with anything from fresh herbs, to pasta, to truffles and even savory cream puffs. Escoffier catalogued hundreds of consommés in his legendary Le Guide Culinaire. There are consommés named after sunrises (Consomme a l’Aurore), actresses (Consomme Sarah Bernhardt), and Kings (Consomme George V).

It’s a shame that consommés have slipped somewhat out of fashion, because they are truly a pleasure to see and eat, can be made ahead, and are so versatile. The process of making a consommé is not complicated, but it does take a little time. Because the soup is purely “stock” (beef, veal, seafood/fumet, or chicken can be used), you really must use a well-prepared homemade stock or a top-quality commercial stock. Make it several days ahead and/or freeze it to break up the work. Once the stock is at room temperature, the stock is combined with a mixture of egg whites, (sometimes) ground meat, and finely minced vegetables. These ingredients do two things: they add a second, corresponding level of flavor to the soup and most importantly, the egg whites “clarify” the stock, literally pulling out impurities as the strange looking mixture simmers along. For the first several minutes (about 15), the egg/meat/vegetable mixture needs to be stirred, basically non-stop, with a wooden spoon, to make sure none of the crucial egg whites stick to the bottom or sides. After that it’s left alone, uncovered, and the most miraculous thing happens. The mixture starts cooking and thickening at the top and becomes what is known in consommé circles as a “draft.” After 30 minutes, it’s done its work and what lurks below the rather ugly draft is a beautiful, clear as a brilliant, sunny day, consommé. Next, a ladle is nudged into the draft to form an opening, and the consomme is ladled into a waiting bowl, through a fine sieve lined with three paper towels. The draft is then discarded, having done its work.

After that, the list is virtually endless on ways to finish the seasoning and garnishes for the consommé, but they should pair with the flavor of the stock, be petite, and be pretty. Nothing clunky will do. This chapter gives you an opportunity to pull out your food processor, which does an excellent job of mincing the vegetables finely for the clarifying mixture. All consommés can be prepared ahead and frozen or refrigerated, but add the garnishes just before serving the steaming soup, preferably served in your prettiest China.

Beef Consomme with Mushrooms and Chives

(Makes 4 to 6 servings)

Whisper thin slices of button mushrooms are added to the hot consommé to cook in just five minutes and are garnished with a sprinkling of fresh, green onion flavor chives. The “feet” of the mushrooms are added to the vegetable mixture to add another layer of mushroom flavor using an otherwise discarded part of the mushroom. This is an excellent consommé for beginners as it relatively simple and simply beautiful to behold.

Beef Consomme with Mushrooms and Chives

Beef Consomme with Mushrooms and Chives

 

2 stalks celery, chopped into 2”-lengths

1 leek, trimmed, cut to 1” above the white root, halved vertically and well-rinsed. Cut into 2”-lengths

1 medium onion, peeled and quartered

Cleaned “feet” from 14 cleaned button mushrooms. Reserve the mushroom heads separately.

1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves and stems

4 eggs whites

1/2 pound lean ground beef

1 teaspoon salt

10 black peppercorns, lightly cracked with a chef’s knife

6 cups best quality beef stock

To finish the soup:

1 tablespoon Cognac

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 cups very thinly sliced reserved mushrooms

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

Place the celery, leek, mushroom feet, onion and parsley in the bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse until very fine, about 30 seconds. Set aside. Place the egg whites in a very large bowl and whisk energetically with a whisk until frothy, about 1 minute. Whisk the reserved vegetable mixture into the egg whites and combine. Fold in the beef, salt, and peppercorns with a wooden spoon and stir to combine.

Place the room temperature stock in a 5 1/2-quart Dutch oven or similarly sized pot. Stir in the vegetable/beef/egg white mixture with a wooden spoon. Turn on heat to medium, and continue cooking (uncovered), stirring constantly, until the stock comes to a simmer, about 15 minutes total. The draft will form now. Stop stirring and leave it alone for 30 minutes, making sure to keep it at a low simmer as to not break up the draft.

Remove from the heat. Break a hole in the draft, gently with the bottom of a ladle, and start scooping it out into a sieve lined with three paper towels into a large bowl. Keep working until all that is left in the pot is the draft. Discard this. The consommé can be refrigerated or frozen at this point. To finish, heat the consommé over medium high heat in a medium saucepan until simmering. Add the Cognac and mushrooms. Taste and adjust seasoning. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes or until the mushrooms are just wilted. Serve with a sprinkle of fresh chives, being sure to get mushrooms in every bowl.

Variations: Another way to use a good beef stock consommé such as this is to serve it with a julienne of a combination of vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, leek, celery, onion, and cabbage. Cut the vegetables into a julienne and simmer them in the warm, finished consommé to cook just before serving. They give extra flavor to the consommé at the last minute and are both beautiful and delicious.

Bon appetit!

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Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats Set Sail For Seamless Entertaining

The last year and a half has been so crazy busy in my world, I’ve rarely had time to settle into one of my favorite things in the world to do, simple, joyful cooking. The only thing that has that beat, is cooking for friends, which is something I enjoyed doing this weekend. Planning the menu, doing the prep, setting the table, and all the things that go into making a successful meal, set the groove for a happy mood and an enjoyable meal.

Appetizers are the starting point for any meal, and as such, are perhaps one of the most crucial components to set a successful, tasty entertaining stage. I came across some beautiful, fresh local shrimp at the market, and decided to put them to use in appetizers. I liked the idea of shrimp salad – a Southern staple after all – but wanted to keep it super light and sophisticated. So, the mayo and calorie count is really low, and the flavor comes mostly from fresh lime juice and zest, and oodles of finely chopped fresh chives. Instead of bread, I decided to use delicate, crunchy endive leaves to “wrap” the salad into individual bites. It works nicely, but bread will do just fine, too.

For this salad, I roasted the shrimp, a trick I picked up from The Barefoot Contessa’s Ina Garten. Roasting at a high heat takes just minutes and really helps preserve the flavor and the nutrients of the shrimp. The best part about all of this? You can prep the salad the day ahead and scoop the salad into the boats as your guests are arriving, which is exactly how it played out at my house on Sunday night.

These would look beautiful on your Easter or any spring holiday table. Happy holidays and happy cooking!

Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats

 

Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats

(Makes about 12 appetizer servings)

3/4 of a pound fresh, shelled shrimp, de-veined and rinsed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

Generous dash Tabasco Sauce

1 shallot, finely chopped

Zest of 1 lime, finely chopped

Juice of 1/2 lime

3 tablespoons finely chopped chives

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 – 2 Belgian endive lettuce heads, trimmed, rinsed, separated and patted dry.

Preheat oven to 425F.  Arrange the shrimp on a roasting sheet and toss to coat with the olive oil. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast for 3 minutes, or until just opaque and lightly pink. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Once cool enough to handle, chop the shrimp very finely (see picture). Place the chopped shrimp in a medium bowl and combine with the mayonnaise, Tabasco, chopped shallot, lime zest, lime juice, and chopped chives. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. (Note: This can be prepared up to one day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator).

To prep the endives, trim a bit from their root base and remove any tattered, browned outer leaves. The leaves that are inside are a bit sturdier and best for the boats in this recipe. They can also be prepped ahead, but store them in the fridge wrapped in a damp towel. They should not be exposed to open air or they may discolor.

To finish the boats, simply scoop a rounding, heaping tablespoon into the center of each boat. Top with a drizzle of fresh chives, if desired. Arrange prettily on an attractive service plate.

 

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Tasso Tussled Sweet Potato and Arugula Tartlets

These savory beauties would be perfect on any Easter or spring holiday table…Adapted from Tart Love – Savory, Sweet and Southern (Holly Herrick/Gibbs Smith). The lovely photo is by Helene Dujardin. Happy Easter and enjoy the beautiful weather and flavors of spring!

Sweet potatoes and arugula (also called “rocket”) grow best in the cooler seasons of fall and spring. Though sweet potatoes are often served loaded with sugar and fat at calorie-drunk Thanksgiving tables, they have a rich, nutty, savory flavor in their virgin state. Arugula provides a deep green color lining at the bottom of the tartlets that gives peppery taste surprise to every bite. Crumbled, candied pecans scattered over the top add just the right sweetness to counter the Cajun kick of tasso ham, which is prepared from cured and smoked pork butt. If you can’t find it, substitute pancetta or bacon, and feel free to spice either up with a little cayenne and fresh garlic as it cooks.

Makes 10 to 12 Tartlets

Equipment needed: Ten to twelve 3 5/8″ X 1″ tartlet pans with removable bottoms, 6″ round pastry cutter

For the pastry:

2 1/2 cups White Lily All Purpose flour

2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

2 sticks (or 1 cup) best quality, AA Grade unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/4″ cubes

ice cold water – about 3 tablespoons or enough to just hold the pastry together

One egg wash – yolk, pinch salt, dash water, blended together

For the filling prep:

2 large sweet potatoes, skin on and pierced with a fork or knife

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup 1/4″ cubed tasso ham

4 cups coarsely chopped fresh arugula, stems removed

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the candied nuts:

1 tablespoon butter

1 cup fresh pecan halves, coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1/2 teaspoon chipotle chili pepper

2 teaspoons granulated sugar

To finish  the potato filling:

1/2 teaspoon salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons honey, preferably good local honey

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup Half & Half

1 egg

Prepare the pastry first. Pulse the flour and the salt together in the bowl of a large food processor fitted with a pastry blade. Add the butter and pulse until the butter breaks down into small pieces, about the size of peas (40 – 50 pulses). Gradually, add the water through the mouth of the food processor, while pulsing. Add just enough so that the pastry comes together in one large, loose ball. Turn it out on a lightly floured surface and form it into a 2″ thick disk. Wrap with plastic wrap and rest in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes or overnight.  Once the pastry has rested, roll it out on a lightly floured surface to about 1/4″ thickness. Working tightly to avoid waste, cut rounds with the pastry cutter. Line the tartlet pans with the pastry, pressing the pastry delicately into the edges and forming a small 1/4″ high border. Chill in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes. Preheat the oven to 375F. Line each tartlet with parchment paper and fill with about 1/4 cup of weights – dried beans, pie weights, and rice will all work. Arrange the tartlets on a baking sheet and cook for 20 minutes or until the pastry has begun to set. Remove the weights and their liners and brush the sides and bottom of the tartlets with the egg wash. Continue baking another 20 minutes or until golden brown and fully baked. Meanwhile, prepare the fillings.

While the pastry is baking, place the two sweet potatoes in the hot oven to bake, skin-on. Bake until softened, 40 – 50 minutes. Remove to cool at room temperature. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large saute pan over medium high heat. When sizzling, add the tasso and brown, tossing from time to time, browning on all sides. This should take about 5 minutes. Add the arugula all at once, tossing or stirring to coat. It will wilt and break-down almost immediately. Cook only 1 – 2  minutes so that it retains its brilliant green color. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside to cool, draining off any excess liquid.

Prepare the candied nuts. Heat the butter in a medium saute pan. When sizzling, add the pecans, salt and pepper, chipotle chili pepper, and sugar. Toss to coat, stirring occasionally. Cook until just browned. Watch carefully so the nuts do not burn! Count on about 5 minutes for the nuts to brown evenly. Drain on paper towels and set aside.

Once the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel, and place the cooked flesh in a large bowl with salt and pepper to tate, 2 tablespoons honey, 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/2 cup Half & Half, and one egg. Beat with a hand-held mixer on medium high until frothy and light, about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

To compile the tartlets, line each with about 1 tablespoon of the cooled arugula mixture. Top with 3 tablespoons of the potato mixture. Arrange the tartlets on a baking sheet and bake at 375 for  35 -40 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for 10 to 15 minutes. Finely chop the cooled nuts and drizzle the top of each tartlet with about 1 tablespoon of the nuts. Serve warm, drizzling lightly with a bit more honey, if desired.

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