Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

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Hop on Boxcar Betty’s Buffalo Chicken Sandwich Super Bowl Train

Bite into this Winning Sandwich on Game Day

Fried chicken wings dressed with plucky Buffalo sauce dipped in cool, pungent blue cheese are a staple Super Bowl treat. But, minus the bone and the skin on the chicken, and extra attention to detail in a tender-ensuring brine and super soft potato roll, you can turn this sometimes messy classic into the best sandwich on the block, heck, in town! When I first met this sandwich while researching the latest edition of The New Charleston Chefs Table  a few years ago, biting into this beauty was love at first sight, then bite, and down to every last crumb. Like my first love, I’ll never forget that sandwich. Ever. And along with the chocolate pudding from another Charleston institution, Hominy Grill, I’ll surely ask for it as part of my last meal, if  I am lucky to have advance notice.

The innovative and prescient Boxcar Betty’s ownership team hatched their plot to create way-better-than-fast-food fried chicken when they were working the front of the house at Charleston restaurant stalwart, Magnolias. All of the chicken here is natural, cage-free, antibiotic-free and locally sourced. That’s not the only difference, it’s the largely secret brine, and of course hot, fresh regularly changed canola oil and house-made condiments and sauces. They all reach a crescendo in the best-selling Buffalo fried chicken sandwich with pungent, creamy blue cheese sauce, garden  fresh tomato slices with, and crunchy, buttery Bibb lettuce. Cool contrasts with the hot, creamy complements the vinegar pluck, and the crunch  melts into the soft, white bun to make the perfect sandwich.

Here’s how to make yours at home. Shop today or Saturday, prep for less than two hours (including brine), and game on! The last few minutes of frying the chicken and compiling the sandwiches can literally be done just before the game starts or halftime, in just minutes. Watch ’em swoon and remember to save one for the cook.

Boxcar’s Buffalo, Blue Cheese Sauce, Tomato and Bibb Lettuce Fried Chicken Sandwich

(Makes 4 sandwiches/servings)

Buffalo Fried Chicken Sandwiches from Boxcar Betty’s can’t be beat, game day or any other day of the year.

For the fried chicken:

1 package commercial poultry brine

(Note: BB’s brine is technically a secret. But, co-owner Roth Scott did share his basic brine ratio of 1 gallon water to 1/3 cup each salt & sugar. Always use glass or stainless steel, not plastic for brining and non-processed salt, ideally kosher. Play with basic seasonings and herbs to come up with your own twist or use commercial poultry brine).

Four 6-ounce skinless chicken breasts

2 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup Dijon mustard

4 cups all-purpose white flour

1/4 cup garlic powder

1/4 cup onion powder

1/4 cup black pepper

1/4 cup kosher or sea salt

2 cups canola oil for frying

4 soft potato rolls (suggest Pane Di Vita potato sandwich rolls, Martin’s potato sandwich rolls, or an alternate preferred fresh potato roll brand)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter for toasting rolls

For the Buffalo sauce:

2 sticks (1/2 pound) unsalted butter

1 cup Texas Pete hot sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons mesquite liquid smoke

Juice of 1 fresh lemon

For the blue cheese dressing:

1 cup coarsely crumbled blue cheese

1 cup mayonnaise

1 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons ground black pepper

2 teaspoons finely minced garlic

2 teaspoons sriracha (or substitute another hot sauce)

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Method:

Brine chicken in chosen brine for 1 1/2 hours. While the chicken is brining, prepare the Buffalo sauce and the blue cheese sauce. For the Buffalo sauce, melt the butter over medium heat. Whisk the remaining sauce ingredients together in a medium bowl. When melted, whisk in the butter to combine. For the blue cheese sauce, gently combine all of the ingredients together in a medium bowl, being careful not to overmix. The goal is to have nice chunks of blue cheese in the dressing.

Drain chicken and set aside. Heat canola oil in a deep fryer or deep skillet to 350F (or over medium high heat if you’re using the stove). In a medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and the Dijon mustard. Separately, combine the flour, garlic powder, onion powder, salt and pepper in another medium bowl.

Dip the first chicken breast in the buttermilk mixture then place in flour mixture. Coat chicken well with the flour and press firmly. Flip chicken and coat again. Repeat the same process with the remaining chicken breasts.

Gently place the chicken in the deep fryer or skillet, well-spaced, in a single layer. Cook for 4 1/2 minutes and until golden brown. While the chicken is cooking, butter buns and toast on a flat top griddle or medium hot pan. Spread blue cheese dressing on top bun. Place slice of tomato and Bibb lettuce on top bun.

Using tongs, remove the chicken from the hot oil and place on a paper-lined plate. Place thermometer in thickest part of chicken to ensure temperature is 165F. Dunk chicken in Buffalo sauce and let drain well. Place sauced chicken on bottom bun and put sandwich(es) together. Serve hot.

Back to school……

Some friends have suggested adding online classes to my private cooking class curriculum. Please let me know if this interests you and what you are interested in learning. It might be a fun way for us to cook together while Covid hopefully leaves our world forever. Here’s a link to what’s on tap at the moment:

Cooking Classes

Message me here as always with thoughts and questions. Be safe, be well, and cook your very best with love in your heart and patience at your fingertips!

Fondly,

Holly and Rocky

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Cooking Classes with Chef Holly Herrick in Williamsburg in Full Swing

Hello friends and fans of great food and cooking,

I’ve missed you these past few months! Like the rest of the world, I’ve been patiently and safely waiting out the terrific crush of Covid-19. I’m praying you and your loved ones have been able to do the same. Now fully vaccinated and underway with resumption of private, customized cooking classes, I wanted to let you know we’re cooking safely and deliciously all over again.

Here is a link to current (January, 2022 and forward)  class information and details:

Cooking Classes

 

I hope to see and hear from you soon. In the meantime, Rocky and I wish you health, safety, and happiness in the new year.

Greetings from Rocky and Holly!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Squashing the Most Out of Late Summer Flavor

The Tuesday after Labor Day, which happened to be unusually warm here in Williamsburg, I visited my local grocer to find fall squash situated front and center in the produce section. A colorful, beautifully arranged display of delicata, pumpkins,  acorn squash, hubbard squash and more, it instantly activated my appetite for the rich, nutty flavors these beauties produce when roasted and pureed or function as colorful, flavorful nuggets in seasonal soups. Just beyond, I spied the zucchini and summer squash I’ve been enjoying all season, and was not, and am still not ready to relinquish. I brought home three very fresh, deep green zucchini, and decided to put them to use in a fall-ish spin on a late summer produce favorite. We’re lucky that many summer favorites, including summer squash and tomatoes, enjoy a long growing season and often staggered plantings, so we have them fresh for many months.

Zucchini and tomatoes got me thinking about sauce, and the addition of pasta and beef put me in a more substantial, goulash frame of mind. Traditionally an Eastern European dish tracing back largely to Hungary and seasoned liberally with paprika, this version takes on a more Mediterranean vibe with the zucchini, basil, oregano, and garlic used in the dish. It’s wonderfully easy and prepared all in one pot in less than thirty minutes. The addition of pasta at the end both thickens the sauce and flavors the pasta, and eliminates the need for yet one more pot in your to-be-washed-sink. I had pretty, mini-farfalle in the house, but macaroni would work great, and gluten-free types can skip the pasta all together. It’s a hearty dish that celebrates very much summer, while tempting the beginnings of fall appetites, much like the winter squash I saw at the market. Enjoy this season’s duality while you can!

Summer Squash Goulash

(Makes 8 generous servings)

This tasty, celebration of late summer flavors is a lighter take on traditional goulash, but is hearty and satisfying enough to invite dreams of fall’s sturdier fare.

 

1 pound ground beef (80 % lean/20 % fat)

1 medium onion, finely diced

2 medium/large zucchini, cut into 1/4″ dice, about 2 cups

3 large cloves garlic, smashed and finely chopped

2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons dried thyme leaves (or use double the quantity fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped)

2 teaspoons dried oregano leaves (or use double the quantity fresh oregano leaves, finely chopped)

2 Tablespoons best quality extra virgin olive oil

1 cup good quality dry red wine – suggest Pinot Noir

28 ounce can whole plum tomatoes, lightly crushed, and their juices

2 Tablespoons ketchup

2 cups mini-farfalle (or substitute another pasta shape)

1/4 cup water (as needed)

Fresh basil and grated Parmesan to garnish

Heat a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pot over medium high heat. Break up the beef and crumble into the pan. Stir, two or three times and cook until just browned. Remove from the heat. Drain and discard excess fat. Return the browned beef to the pan. Add the onion, zucchini, garlic, salt, pepper, thyme, oregano, and olive oil. Stir to coat, reduce to medium, and cook until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes. Add the wine, increase heat to high, and reduce by half. Return to a simmer over medium. Add the ketchup and pasta, stirring well. Bring up to a simmer over medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is just al dente, about 10 minutes depending on the pasta used.  Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve individually or in a large serving bowl, garnishing liberally with fresh basil and freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Bon appetit!

Remember to write me with any comments or questions and keep those Thursday dinners  in mind. They’re coming up fast! Next up is October 24. September is sold out. I would love to see you at my table.

Thursday Dinners with Holly

 

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

 

Fondly, Holly and Rocky

 

 

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The Big Williamsburg Move

From the Lowcountry to the Rolling Hills of Williamsburg, Virginia

When I moved to Charleston, SC in 2000 all the way from Jackson, WY, I didn’t see it coming. It was love at first sight with me and that beautiful, historic, soulful old city, and within minutes (it seemed), I was driving across the country with my dog Waco and my (former) husband Greg to set up a new home and life there.  I spent twenty very happy and wonderful  years there, growing further in love and deeper in my knowledge of the city. I watched (and tasted) her restaurant scene grow from adolescence to super star adulthood and had the pleasure to write about much of it, as well as teach and write nine cookbooks from that home base, enveloped by so many wonderful friends and an overflowing, endless cup of kindnesses.

For me, my usual maximum length of time to stay interested in anyplace and many things is seven years. This was the time’s-up-span for my love of yoga, tennis, Jackson, WY, and even (sadly) my marriage. Still, I thought I might stay in Charleston forever. But the winds of change started blowing in my heart and mind a few years ago, and like a waning love affair, it took over and delivered me to my new home, Williamsbug, VA in July.  When I “met” Charleston, charming expressions like “I was over-served last night” spoken in that half drawl, have Brit-speak unique to real Charlestonian’s were commonplace and most people knew the difference between a Lowcountry shrimp and an imposter. She’s still there and I love her but it’s different and I needed to get to higher, quieter ground that’s closer to the country roots of my New England childhood, but still firmly rooted in history and the South.

As when I moved to Charleston, I know virtually no one in Williamsburg, except my dear friend Michael who drove my dog Rocky, and two cats Sid and Mr. Purrfect, their respective crates, and everything we could cram into my Juke Nissan one month ago to my new house, eight long hours away. Michael’s certainly earned his wings in Heaven for that kind gesture, at the very least. I’ve spent that month making it a home and making some wonderful new friends and am ready to start really digging in getting to know Williamsburg, specifically her Colonial foodways, culinary distinctions, history, her people and her places. I will continue developing recipes, teaching cooking classes, writing cookbooks and some new genres, and conducting culinary tours. I plan to add seasonal dinners to my “menu” of offerings, but need a little time to fully update the website, so bear with me for a few more days, possibly a week or so on that.    Similarly, all the contact info for my social media, YELP and Google accounts.

In the meantime, I’ve been enjoying some exceptional peaches, cantaloupes, and butter beans from farmer Hermon (with an “o”) Smith’s farm stand just down the winding road from my house.  The peaches are mostly from SC, NC and GA and I’ve been eating two of the sweet, tangy, juicy delights daily with a splash of cream. The butter beans are local and as far as I can tell are slightly more mineral in flavor and a tad sweeter than their Lowcountry cousins. It must be related to the terroir. They’re delicious here, as there, stewed with ham hock and finished with butter and fresh basil – from my new pot outside my new (old) door. And, the cantaloupes, sweeter than honey. They make me understand better why they say Virginia is for lovers.

But, to really make it feel like home, I needed to make a favored summer staple in my new kitchen, a BLT prepared with beefy tomatoes from Hermon’s stand and Duke’s mayo. That sealed the deal! Rocky enjoyed a few crumbs and now we’re officially home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s a great recipe using cantaloupes in the late summer, when days are still hot and beg for something cool, refreshing, fruity, and seasonal. It’s from The French Cooks – Soups & Stews and remains one of my favorite summer soup recipes. From my Williamsburg kitchen to yours.

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Hot southern summers cry out for the cool, sweetness of melon. I can’t see or taste cantaloupe without thinking of many afternoons I spent in France supping with friends on the smaller, sweeter varietals they serve there, often wrapped in Jambon de Bayonne and served with a cool, bubbly glass of Blanquette de Limoux.

This sparkling cantaloupe soup brings these luscious flavors together, and gets blessed with a dash of cream, which recalls a kind of grown-up ice cream float, minus all the calories and with the peppery pluck of fresh basil and ground black pepper. I substitute the more easily found prosciutto (dry-cured ham found in the deli section) and brut Champagne for the Blanquette. The soup is not cooked, so if you’re not comfortable with a bit of alcohol in the soup, substitute sparkling cider. Refrigerate the soup thoroughly for an hour or up to three hours (any longers and the bubbles will lose their luster)  and serve in shallow bowls. Garnish the center of the plate with the basil and prosciutto and finish with a drizzle of black pepper.  This presentation gives a pretty French touch while putting the perfect finishing touches on this fabulous soup’s flavor package.

Sparkling Cantaloupe Soup with Prosciutto and Basil

(Makes 6 to 8 servings)

1/2 large, ripe cantaloupe, halved, seeded and peeled cut into 1/4″ cubes (about 4 cups)

2/3 cup brut Champagne (or substitute non-alcoholic sparkling cider)

1/2 cup whole cream (do not substitute with another reduced fat cream)

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Zest of 1 lime

Garnish:

8 slices prosciutto, trimmed and cut into thin strips

1 tablespoon fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

You’ll need a food processor or blender; I find the latter yields a frothier, smoother soup. After that, it goes fast! Prep the cantaloupe. To remove the outer rind, it’s easiest to cut the melon into several slices (usually about 4 to 6). Then, using a sharp, medium chef’s knife, slice along the bottom to remove the rind. Cut the melon into cubes. Place in the blender with the Champagne and cream. Pulse a few times and then blend until smooth and frothy.

Pour out into a medium sized bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the lime zest. Cover with plastic wrap and chill thoroughly for one hour in the refrigerator. Meanwhile, prep the garnish and toss the prosciutto, basil and oil together in a small bowl.

To serve, ladle the soup into shallow bowls. Top with a dollop of the garnish set up in the middle of the bowl. Dust with a sprinkle of ground black pepper. (Note: Taste the soup after it has chilled.  The colder temperature may “numb” your previous seasoning. Adjust salt and pepper as needed).

Bon appetit!

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Roasted Chicken – The Feast That Keeps on Giving – Part II

Divine Chicken Divan

Last week, I roasted one 6-pound, $7 chicken and created 4 separate dishes and 16 meals, beginning with the roasted chicken, the ensuing stock, a Chicken and Dumpling Soup made from the stock  a luscious Chicken Divan casserole, and four substantial chicken sandwiches enhanced with a homemade Nutty Whole Grain Bread. That’s going the distance in the economical and no waste cooking department, which was, and for the long-haul is, my most intense cooking ambition these days. Along with keeping things delicious, of course.

Here’s the original post for the roast for easy reference:

Roasted Chicken – The Feast That Keeps on Giving

It was cold last week and like most of us in the snowy, Northern Hemisphere, I was in the mood for some soothing, creamy, savory comfort food.  Chicken Divan, something a Facebook friend aptly described as ‘legacy fare,’ came to mind. Named after the restaurant where it was created in the Chatham Hotel in New York City, divan is a French word meaning ‘meeting place’ or ‘grand hall.’ In addition to being descriptive, like all French words, it sounds prettier than many English words and its base is a mother sauce, a Bechamel turned cheesy, also known as a Mornay sauce. Classically, it’s prepared with broccoli and mushrooms, but I kept broccoli out of the equation (mostly because I didn’t have any to use) and beefed up the mushroom ratio with dried porcini macerated in warm, dry vermouth which was later added to the Mornay. The end result was stunning and doubles as brunch (I served it to friends as such with a side of roasted asparagus), lunch, dinner or a midnight snack.

A word on bread crumbs and mushroom feet:

Unless you are one of the rare few that seldom has a nub of baguette or left-over bread hanging around, there is no reason to ever buy bread crumbs at the grocery. Store the bread bits and pieces in the freezer and crumble them in the food processor as you’re ready to use them, as in the topping for this casserole. Same goes for most types of cheeses (except soft cheeses), which I freeze and use in forgiving dishes such as a casserole or omelet frequently. In cooking school, we were taught not to use the feet of mushrooms in dishes, except in stock, but I disagree. Except for some very tough mushroom types, such as shitake, they are perfectly palatable. With all mushrooms (except morels which are another story), clean them simply by rubbing them down with a damp paper towel or clean kitchen towel to remove excess dirt.

Divine Chicken Divan

Divine Chicken Divan

(Makes 10 generous portions)

1 ounce dried wild porcini

1/2 cup extra dry white vermouth

3/4 cup chicken stock (from roasted chicken – see link above – or best quality commercial chicken stock)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped

8 ounces, or 2 1/2 cups crimini mushrooms, halved and thinly sliced, feet-on

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

For the Mornay:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons all-purpose

2 cups whole milk

Reserved strained liquid from the porcini mushrooms

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground pepper

2 cups grated Gruyere cheese

1 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Compiling the casserole:

Shredded meat from the 1 chicken breast and one leg/thigh from the roasted chicken, skin and bones removed – approximately three cups

5 scallions, finely chopped

1 1/4 bread crumbs

2 tablespoons butter, halved

Preheat the oven to 400F.  Place the porcini, vermouth, and chicken stock in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to a simmer, cook 3 minutes and set aside, at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile, heat two tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, stir to coat, and cook over medium low heat until softened, 5 minutes. Add the chopped crimini, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Stir to coat and saute until softened, five minutes. Set aside. Meanwhile, strain the liquid from the porcini through a coffee filter into a small bowl and set aside. Coarsely chop the porcini and add to the mushrooms in the saute pan and set aside.

Prepare the Mornay.  Melt the two tablespoons butter in a medium sauce pan over medium heat. Add the flour and stir to combine with a wooden spoon. Cook 1 minute, or until blond and barely bubbling. Add the milk, reserved strained porcini liquid, bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer over medium low heat. Cook, stirring, five minutes or until thickened. Season with the nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the Gruyere and Parmesan cheeses until melted.

To compile the casserole, use 1 tablespoon of the butter to rub down the sides and edges of a 4-quart casserole dish.  Arrange the shredded chicken meat on the bottom. Scatter with the chopped scallions and reserved mushrooms in the saute pan. Pour the warm Mornay sauce evenly over the top. Separately, melt remaining tablespoon of butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the bread crumbs and toast lightly, stirring to coat. Top the casserole evenly with the browned bread crumbs.  Bake 30 to 40 minutes until golden, fragrant and bubbling. (Note: Can prepare/compile ahead, refrigerate overnight, and bake just before serving. Also, reheats well in oven or microwave after baked).

Happy cooking! Look for the Nutty Whole Grain Bread and Chicken and Dumpling Soup recipe next week. In the meantime, please remember to keep this upcoming cookbook writing retreat and Folly Beach spring wellness vacation in mind and by all means, tell  your friends about it. We still have spots open. Beckie and I would love to see you there! It’s going to be delicious, fun, and educational.

Cracking the Cookbook Code. Writing, Cooking, Marketing, Photography + Wellness Retreat

 

 

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