Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

butter sauce

No Stopping the Versatile Choux Train

I’ve been having fun in my kitchen testing choux recipes for my upcoming book, The French Cook – Eclairs and Cream Puffs (Gibbs Smith, Fall 2013). I’ve just concluded the savory portion of the book and these little choux gnocchi treats were one of my favorites to eat, and so much fun to make.  I shared a taste with my neighbors, inspiring one of their darling young daughters to declare me “a good cooker.” It’s the little things that make one smile. I thought you might enjoy the recipe. Next stop on the choux train: all things sweet and delicious starting with cream puffs.

Herbed Choux Gnocchi with a Saffron & Butter Sauce

(Yields 10 generous appetizer portions, or 4 to 6 entrees)

Infinitely less complicated than traditional gnocchi, piping choux directly into simmering (but not boiling), well salted water yields little logs of tender, gnocchi-like dumplings. They take the time of preparing the choux and just minutes to cook; roughly 20 – 25 minutes. After the choux hits the water, it drops to the bottom and then pops to the top. A few more minutes of fattening and plumping up, they’re ready to drain, toss with seasoned butter and serve. The ease and bubbling drama of the preparation make it perfect for a dinner party or an evening of casual dining with friends or family. Kids will love them! If you’re not a big saffron fan, just take it out of the mix. These need to be served fairly quickly but can stay warm in the cooking water, off the heat, for 15 or 20 minutes.

Herbed Choux Gnocchi with a Saffron Butter Sauce

Herbed Choux Gnocchi with a Saffron Butter Sauce

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the choux gnocchi:

Master Recipe Savory Choux Pastry (with variations)

1 cup water

3/4 stick (3 ounces) unsalted, cold butter cut into 1/2”-cubes

1/2 cup bread flour

1/2 cup All-Purpose flour

3 tablespoons finely ground cornmeal

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

4 room temperature large eggs (about 1 cup), beaten together

Plus:

1/4 cup fresh chives, finely chopped

1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves, finely chopped

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves, finely chopped

Zest of 1 lemon

Before starting the pastry, have a large pot of well-salted water on a very low simmer. Fit a pastry bag with the #806 round tip and have the ingredients measured and ready to go before preparing the choux.

In a medium, sturdy sauce pan, melt the water and butter together over medium high heat, stirring once or twice to help the butter melt. Once melted, reduce the heat to medium. Sift together the bread flour, AP flour, cornmeal and salt together over a medium bowl. Add the sifted dry ingredients all at once to the melted water and butter mixture, reserving the bowl nearby. Stir the mixture (roux) vigorously with a wooden spoon to bring the dough together, initially. Continue stirring, less vigorously, until the pastry starts to pull away from the sides of the pan and forms a uniform ball. Turn the pastry out into the reserved bowl. Allow to sit for about 1 minute, or until the pastry is cool enough to touch comfortably with your finger for at least 15 seconds. Add 1/2 of the beaten eggs (about 1/2 cup) to the pastry. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the pastry looks uniform and glossy, about 1 minute. Add half of the remaining egg mixture (about 1/4 cup) and continue to stir with a wooden spoon until the pastry is uniform and glossy (about 1 minute). Repeat with the remaining egg mixture.  Stir in the chives, parsley, thyme and lemon zest.

Fill the prepared pastry bag with 1/2 of the pastry. Pipe the pastry over the simmering water into 1/2” to 3/4” lengths, about 1/2”-thick, cutting with a kitchen scissor or paring knife once the desired length has been met to “plop” it into the water. Continue piping until the pastry bag is empty. The choux will rise to the surface after about 3 to 4 minutes, and will continue to plump and cook another 6 to 8 minutes, or until set. Drain with a slotted spoon onto a clean, cloth towel-lined baking sheet. Fill the pastry bag with the remaining choux and repeat with the second batch.

For the butter sauce:

1 stick (8 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut into large cubes

1 small shallot, finely chopped

1/4 teaspoon saffron threads (optional)

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Sea or kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, in a small sauce pan, combine the butter, shallot, saffron, lemon juice and seasoning. Melt over medium heat, reduce to low. Reserve warm over low heat.

To serve, arrange the gnocchi on individual plates and drizzle with a generous amount of the seasoned butter sauce. Or, serve on a platter and let everyone serve themselves.

Here’s another fun way to use these darling little choux gnocchi:

Choux Gnocchi Gratinee

(Yields 8 side-dish portions)

The same choux gnocchi (using the master recipe above), dressed with Parmesan and butter and baked off in a hot oven, yields a cheesy, pasta-like delight that is perfect with roasted chicken, pork or a juicy steak. Simply poach the gnocchi as in the previous recipe and arrange the cooked, drained gnocchi in a large baking pan. Top with 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese and a couple pats of butter. Bake at 400F for 20 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Serve immediately. (Note: Any left-over gnocchi from the previous recipe can be stored overnight in the refrigerator and served gratinee style the next day).

Bon appetit!

 

Share
Latest from the Blog
Books
Never Miss a Post!

Sign up for my newsletter and never miss a post or give-away.