A few days ago, one of those sneaky cheese dreams jump-started my day, so I decided it was time to finally check out goat. sheep. cow, a ten month-old cheese/wine/charcuterie shop I’ve heard a lot about but had not yet visited. Subliminally, I think it’s because I was afraid I would be disappointed. Instead, I was utterly delighted.

Aptly named after the three milk-bearing animals whose milk is used to produce cheese (and just down the door from Dog & Horse art gallery – I kid you not!), the petite and cheerful space completely recalls a Parisian boulangerie/fromagerie. This particular block of Church Street, in all of its colonial splendor, is dappled with sunlight and draped with cheerful window boxes.

Pretty window boxes line this pretty stretch of Church Street, home of goat. sheep. cow.

The exterior of the shop has an appealing Parisian patina, as well.

Welcome to goat.sheep.cow. Come on in!

But, it’s what awaits inside that will give any cheese lover multiple reasons to beam. Gleaming cases stacked with well-labeled cheeses of every kind from all over the world tease with their endless edible possibilities – fondue, sandwich, casserole, quiche, or straight out of hand. Owners Patty Cohen (husband Mike, a certified sommelier, handles the wine side of things) and Trudi Wagner were on hand to hand-slice the cheese, kindly offering tastings to help me make what was becoming an agonizingly difficult cheese acquisition decision.

Pass the Cheese, Please!

Ultimately, I walked away with small, neatly wrapped wedges of Brebis, Raclette, Nuvola di Pecora and Rosso di Langa. But, that was just the beginning.  The shop also sells beautiful, golden, firm, oven-fresh baguettes tucked into brown paper sleeves in a brimming basket near the front door. The bread is shipped in from New York and baked off at the shop to ensure not only freshness but authenticity.

The irresistible allure of the bread basket.

So, I picked up a baguette, a bottle of Burgundy, and a small packet of whisper-thin, freshly sliced Finocchiona, a lovely Italian cured charcuterie laced with tiny points of fennel seeds. I decided to take my cheese cache home to make a sandwich. Sandwiches are not prepared in-house, but really, there is no need. Grab some cheese, bread, and wine and do as the French do and head on out to one of Charleston’s many lovely, nearby parks on one of Charleston’s many lovely days, and have a picnic.

Back at home, I halved a generous length of the fresh, delicious baguette, spread it with a generous layer of Dijon mustard, and stacked it with the  nutty, sweet Italian cow/sheep Rosso di Langa with a layer of charcuterie, poured a glass of wine, took a bite, and was back in that cheese dream all over again. Except, this time it was real.

You, too, can satisfy your delicious cheese (and wine, and bread, and charcuterie, too) dreams at goat. sheep. cow. Fabulous service and a winning location render it just about perfect.

goat. sheep. cow

106B Church Street, downtown Charleston, SC 29401

(843) 480-6526

www.goatsheepcow.com

Book Giveaway! Food Lovers’ Guide to Charleston and Savannah – The Best Restaurants, Markets & Local Culinary Offerings (Globe Pequot Press, December 2011)

A free signed copy of this, my latest book, is promised to the first person who correctly identifies the two thinly-veiled puns in this post relating to the types of animals in this shop’s name. Hint: The first is cow-specific and is closely followed by a goat-specific pun. Leave your answer in the comments section and I’ll get back to the winner ASAP. Good luck!

Super Food Time!

The Super Bowl demands foods that will satisfy big appetites and this Sweet River Run Farms Grass-Fed Meat Loaf from Summer Farmers Market Cookbook is guaranteed to do just that. Chunky, moist and full of flavor, it could also be formed into meatballs, browned and then baked off. I like it best in loaf form. Over chunky mashed potatoes or even grits, it is a sure winner.

Grass-fed beef makes a big difference in flavor and texture. Try and get your hands on some. I usually score at the farmers’ market at the Sweet River Run Farms booth at the Charleston Farmers’ Market when it’s in season (c’mon April!), but it can also usually be found at higher-end grocery stores, specialty shops, and often, at Costco, of all places.

The content and recipe that follows is adapted from Southern Farmers Market Cookbook (Gibbs Smith, June 2009) by Holly Herrick.

Grass-fed beef tastes completely unlike the corn-fed, mass-produced, commercial variety found on grocery store shelves across the country. When cooking, the aromas of the sweet farm grasses upon which the cattle grazed during their gentle, low-stress, antibiotic and hormone-free lives fills your home. It tastes exactly like it smells: clean, pure, grassy, and even a little nutty. The texture is firmer and more elastic than corn-fed beef, too. Because it has a lower fat content, grass-fed beef typically cooks more quickly. Be careful not to overcook it or it will become dry.

Sweet River Run Farms Grass-Fed Beef Meat Loaf

(Serves eight)

2 pounds (4 cups) grass-fed ground beef

1 cup whole wheat panko (or substitute other unseasoned fresh breadcrumbs)

1 cup skim milk

1 large egg

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

2 dashes Tabasco or preferred hot sauce brand

2 tablespoons ketchup

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon barbecue sauce

3 cloves garlic, smashed into a rough puree

1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon fresh ground black pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

4 tablespoons butter

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Combine all of the ingredients except the butter in a large bowl and, using your hands, blend thoroughly. Press firmly into a 9-inch terrine mold or regular loaf pan, shaping to round the top slightly, like a traditional meat loaf. Cut the butter into several small squares and evenly dot the top of the meat loaf with the butter, pressing lightly with fingertips to embed. Bake on center rack until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 25 minutes (or 45 minutes in a traditional loaf pan). Remove, and allow to rest about 15 minutes. Drain off any excess fat and turn out the loaf. Slice into 2″-thick slices and serve immediately.

Where’s the Beef?

If it’s grass-fed cattle, it’s grazing lazily in an open field of waving green grass, the way cows were meant to do.

Cows are healthier eating grass because that’s what their stomachs are designed to process, not the corn and soybean diets fed to commercial cattle. Grass-fed beef is healthier for the consumer because it has a healthy ratio of Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids, is lower in fat and calories than corn-fed beef, and has high levels of CLA, or conjugated linoleic acid, another good fat that’s been shown to prevent cancer.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_13?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=southern+farmers+market+cookbook&sprefix=southern+farm%2Caps%2C158

(Adapted from Tart Love – Sassy, Savory, and Sweet, Gibbs Smith, October 2011)

These surprise hot pockets, with their perfect crunch and ooze factor, make idyllic party food or can be a central player for a Sunday brunch buffet. The best game plan is to prep the fillings and the pastry the day before, fill them on cooking day, keep cold for several hours, and fry or bake just before serving.

Feisty Fried Shrimp and Grits Pockets. Photo by Helene Dujardin.

Feisty Fried Shrimp and Grits Pockets

(Makes 24  pockets)

Equipment needed: 4-inch round pastry cutter, large pot for deep-frying

2 batches Master Savory Pastry

2 1/2 cups White Lily all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons sea salt or kosher salt

2 sticks (1 cup) AA grade unsalted butter, very cold and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

About 3 tablespoons ice -cold water, or just enough to hold the pastry together

Grits Filling

3/4 cup yellow stone ground grits

1 1/2 cups half-and-half

1 cup water

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt or sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

3/4 cup grated Gouda cheese

Shrimp Filling

3 strips bacon

1 tablespoon butter

2 cloves garlic, smashed

1 stalk celery, trimmed and finely chopped

1/4 dry white wine

1 1/2 cups boxed seafood stock

Generous dash hot sauce

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

3 Roma tomatoes, finely chopped

4 scallions, finely chopped

1 tablespoon ketchup

1 tablespoon cream

1 tablespoon herbes de Provence or dried thyme

3 thin slices prosciutto, cut into thin strips

1 teaspoon honey

1 pound fresh white or brown shrimp, peeled, deveined, coarsely chopped

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

4 cups vegetable, canola or peanut oil

Sliced scallion, for garnish, optional

Chopped parsley, for garnish, optional.

Begin by making the pastry, ideally a full day ahead. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a plastic blade, pulse together the flour and salt until blended. Add the butter. Quickly, pulse the butter 40 – 50 times until it’s the size of large grains or very small peas. Drizzle the ice cold water through the mouth of the processor, pulsing as you go. Stop pulsing when the pastry comes together in a clumsy, bumpy, loose ball. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface and shape into the form of a disk. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least three hours or overnight. Prepare a second batch using the same master savory pastry recipe and repeat the directions outlined above.

The day before service, prepare the grits filling. Bring the grits, half-and-half, water, salt and pepper to a boil in a medium pot over medium-high heat, whisking constantly. Reduce to a low simmer and continue whisking regularly. Add more water as needed and adjust seasonings carefully along the way. Count on about 30 minutes for the grits to cook. The grits are done when they’re tooth-tender but still have a tiny “bite.” Remove from the heat, whisk in the cheese until melted, and set aside to cool. Refrigerate overnight in an airtight container.

To prepare the shrimp filling, cook bacon in a large, deep skillet over medium-high heat until crisp and golden, turning once or twice. Remove from the pan and drain on paper towels. Discard all but two tablespoons of the bacon fat and continue. Heat over medium-low heat and add the butter, garlic and celery. Cook about 5 minutes, until just softened. Add wine and seafood stock and cook over medium heat until reduced by two-thirds. Add hot sauce, Worcestershire, tomatoes, scallions, ketchup, cream, herbes de Provence or thyme, prosciutto, and honey. Cook through for a few minutes. At the last minute, season to taste with salt and pepper. Crumble the reserved bacon and stir in along with the raw shrimp. Stir through just to coat. (Note: You don’t really want to cook the shrimp at this point, as they will cook when frying. Be careful to barely heat the shrimp through, or they will be tough. Remove shrimp from the heat and refrigerate overnight in an airtight container.)

On the day of service, several hours before serving, roll out the pastry, one batch at a time, into about 1/4-inch thick, even thickness. Cut the pastry into 4-inch rounds, lightly dusted with flour, and arrange neatly on a baking pan. Chill the rounds for 20 minutes to 1 hour. To fill the pockets, place 1 tablespoon of the cold grits on the right side of the circle, flattening gently with the back of a spoon. Top with a heaping tablespoon of the cooled shrimp mixture, leaving 1/4-inch naked pastry border. Seal gently with your fingertips, then press the border gently with the tines of a fork to seal. The pockets should look like fat, crimped pastry crescent moons. Continue until all the pastry and filling has been used. Chill pockets for 30 minutes and up to several hours, covered lightly with plastic wrap.

About 40 minutes before serving, preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Heat oil of choice in a large pot over medium-high heat, until 360-375 degrees F., or until the oil begins to squirm and zigzag around the bottom of the pan and sizzles aggressively when the pastry enters the pan. Fry in batches of 2 or 3 pockets, gently placing each into the hot oil (do not plop or you might get burned)! Cook for 7 minutes, or until the pockets float on top and are deep, golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.  Keep warm in the preheated oven while frying the remainder. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh scallions or parsley if desired.

(Note: If you want to save calories and avoid frying, ditch the oil/frying step and simply preheat your oven to 375 degrees F. Arrange the prepped pockets, spaced and in a single layer on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper for about 25 minutes, or until golden. Be sure to give the pockets a gentle egg wash glaze before popping them into the oven).

Game on! May the best team (and pocket!) win.

For more sample recipes from Tart Love, or to buy the book, please visit the link below.

http://www.amazon.com/Tart-Love-Sassy-Savory-Sweet/dp/1423618947/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328199217&sr=8-1

Last fall, young owner Justin Croxall bravely flexed his entrepreneurial muscle and expanded, in a big way, adding a much larger location near the corner of King Street and Broad Street in the heart of downtown and just a few blocks away from my new (well, new/old)  house. It was a smart move, and one that was done very well. This stretch of King is growing with smart little shops (like Heirloom Books across the street) and increased foot traffic with accompanying appetites.  And, aside from nearby Fast & French and Brent’s, there are precious few places around to satisfy them.

The new Bull Street is as much of an eat-in/take-out restaurant as a gourmet grocery store.

The “new” Bull Street is bigger and brighter than the old one and has a lot more to choose from. Visitors can grab a basket and shop from a vast array of imported cheeses, wine, pasta, sauces, fresh fruit and vegetables and more, all arranged on sparkling stainless steel shelving.  Fresh bread is delivered daily from Normandy Farms and Bull Street knows how to fill them.  The smoked duck club ($10) is stuffed with juicy, deeply-flavored duck confit, smoked duck ham, smoked gouda and pickled onion and finished off with the peppery bite of arugula. The celebrated chicken salad, made with chicken roasted in-house and cut into fat cubes is just as good at this location, with the crunch of roasted almonds and the bite of dried cranberries all bound together with a pale pink, punchy, cranberry salad.  A cornucopia of salads and soups are also on the new menu here.

However, what I love most, are the breakfast sandwiches. An artsy crowd can regularly be found here in the early hours of any given day, sipping coffee and breaking into these warm, made-to-order beauties. The BYO breakfast sandwich ($6) can be made exactly the way you like. You pick the bread (croissant, bagel, biscuit or English muffin), you pick the way you want your eggs cooked (scrambled, hard, poached, egg whites only if you like), and you pick your meat of choice (my favorite is the salty, thick country ham), and you pick your cheese of choice (cheddar, Swiss, provolone or gruyere). They come out of the bright, spotless open kitchen hot and ready to start your day.

The tables are constantly cleared and cleaned by the friendly staff who get the food out in a hurry, but without leaving customers feeling rushed.

It’s hard to leave empty-handed with a fat choice of excellent condiments, pickles, olives, and imaginative sauces, like a bright green walnut pesto to toss in imported pasta from Bull Street’s well-stocked shelves.

Bull Street also has an extensive catering menu and the Super Bowl is just days away. Indeed, Bull Street Gourmet has a history of being in the right place at the right time and doing things right every time. I’m personally very happy to have them in the neighborhood.

Bull Street Gourmet & Market

120 King Street, Charleston, SC 29401

(843) 722-6464

www.bullstreetcharleston.com

Yet, sadly, these things sometimes do happen. Last December, a devastating fire blazed through one of  Keegan Filion Farms barns, a barn built by owner Annie Keegan’s grandfather some eighty years ago, that housed over 100 young turkeys. Tragically, the baby birds perished along with the barn, tools and more.

What happened next is as beautiful as this story is sad. As they have many times before, a team of fourteen chefs banded together along with Randall Goldman, CEO of Patrick Properties Hospitality Group, to organize an event to help raise money for Annie and Marc Keegan and Keegan Filian Farm. The goal was to raise $20,000 by offering delicious food prepared by the chefs to a paying public (tickets were $50 each) on the gorgeous grounds of Lowndes Grove Plantation near the banks of the Ashley River.

So on Sunday, a slightly overcast, slightly blustery day, the Charleston community came together under elegant white tents to support these wonderful local farmers.

From left to right, Devany-Vickery Davidson, Joan Perry, Holly Herrick, and Jennifer Goldman

The tents quickly filled with an enthusiastic crowd, eager to do what they could for Keegan Filion Farms. This, in itself, was heart-warming in a big way.

But, what I found the most profoundly touching, was to see fourteen chefs and their teams come on out on what’s usually a day off, after a long and grueling twelve days of Charleston Restaurant Week, to share their talent, love and support. And, they did it with smiles on their faces with camaraderie (not rivalry) amongst their fellow chefs.   It was just grand to see the likes of Nico Romo of Fish Restaurant chortling and joking with Ken Vedrinski of Trattoria Lucca. Or to see Craig Deihl of Cypress hugging and beaming with joy at his young daughter. It felt like community, the special kind of community that is Charleston.

Despite the short-comings of the cooking setting, the chefs dished out delicious food, plate after fourteen plates of goodness.  Though I only sampled six dishes, each was nearly as delicious as the next. Two that were especially divine included FIG‘s pillowy gnocchi and Wild Olive‘s lasagna. Both featured perfectly prepared and paired lamb bolognese, pasta and plenty of cheese.

The gnocchi was ultra-moist and tender, effortlessly yielding even to a plastic fork. It was perhaps the best I’ve ever had. The sauce was layered in mild-sweet flavors of slightly acidic tomatoes and wine and the fragrant essence of ground lamb. It was finished with a dusting of finely chopped parsley and mint. On the other side of the tent, Jacques Larson and his team were dishing out generous squares of a piping hot lasagna, ribbons of tender, house-made pasta, holding together layers of tart, fresh goat cheese and another exquisite lamb bolognese.

Regardless, all the dishes shared the same ingredient – generosity.  That’s something Charleston’s fabulous pool of chefs share a’ plenty. Thank you to all involved to help one of our farmer’s in need. By the end of the four-hour long event, $15,000 was earned towards the $20,000 goal. That’s saying something!

FIG’s amazing Ricotta Gnocchi with Lamb Bolognese (pictured above).

Wild Olive’s Goat Cheese and Lamb Bolognese Lasagna – out of this world (pictured left).

Go Charleston!

Like so many of their local restaurant brethren, Two Boroughs Larder leans heavily on the localvore theme, sourcing from popular farming titans like Keegan Fillion, and buying only SC milk and local farm eggs. But, unlike The Macintosh and HUSK, for example, the theme isn’t wholly or even largely Southern.  The food pairings hit global notes, with Korean inspired Bowl-O-Noodle and the Italian Veal Ragu Bianco while the heaping beef brisket sandwich with spicy/sweet country mustard would be happily at home in any Jewish deli.

Two Boroughs Version of a Brisket Whopper

Sampled on my very first visit here, this sky-high sandwich featured fork-tender, full-flavored brisket with cool, crunchy house made pickles and a pungent, sweet/hot mustard that popped with rustic mustard seeds.

It’s the reason I came back, again, and again. It took a couple passes for the service, which was a bit frosty at the first pass, and the decor, simultaneously rustic and cosmopolitan and mildly uncomfortable with somewhat confined spacing, to grow on me. Reclaimed and old wood covers the walls and forms the tables, while sleek metallic chairs provide slightly edgy seating.  In the end, the convivial setting and warming neighborhood feel of the place won me over.  Once you settle in,  hopefully in the company of a few good friends, it’s all about the deftly prepared food by the New England Culinary Institute grad, Keeler, and a sip or two of the restaurant’s extensive and revolving craft beer and respectable wine selection.

The menu “standard” include the Bowl-O-Noodle ($9), a steaming bowl of buckwheat noodles, pork broth, pork and egg (kimchi, greens and pickled mushrooms can be added for a little extra) and a selection of breakfast sandwiches ($5-$6) that can be ordered any time of the day or night. These beauties sit on gorgeous hard rolls and are filled with the likes of Nueske’s bacon, peperonata, or house-made pork scrapple along with gooey, melting cheddar cheese and a fried egg.

Other than that, the menu revolves with what’s arrived in the kitchen that day and the chef’s formidable sense of whimsy, talent, and creativity. Though the main dishes can be pricey, particularly for lunch (ranging from $14 – $25), one’s appetite can be thoroughly sated for much less by combining a couple of the wonderful sides and a starter (such as the stellar Szechuan ox tail , $13).

That’s what I did on my most recent trip, settling into a couple of sides and a mostly vegetarian feast, including this incredible salsify gratin, which balanced the nutty, briny taste of the root vegetable, with ample cream and a crisp, broiled finish on top.

Creamy Salsify Gratin Side Dish

Also being served that day,  a warm, satisfying Catalan chickpea “main,” which offered a guilt-free trip to the flavors of Spain with background hints of Sherry vinegar, roasted red peppers, soft, sweet onion, and fryer-hot puffs of fried, chickpea puree. This was chickpea perfection!

Catalan Chickpeas

Two Boroughs proves its worthy and diverse larder – which often counts house-made pickles, charred lemon, kimchi, Mornay sauce, lentilles du Puy, parsnip broth, Marcona almond pesto in its ranks – works in new, wonderful ways and and with a sense of style and flavor pairings Charleston has not yet experienced before.

In the hands of a less talented chef, the diversity of ingredients and international culinary influences, risk getting jumbled. Not so with Keeler at Two Boroughs Larder. His combination hits the sum of its parts just about perfectly. There are even locally made YesUMay ice cream cookie sandwiches for dessert.

Two Boroughs Larder

186 Coming Street, Charleston SC

(843) 637-3722

Visit www.twoboroughslarder.com for daily menu postings, hours and more information.

This had to have had  a powerful effect on our collective humanity consciousness. I feel like levels of compassion, kindness, and simple goodness were higher than I’ve sensed in a long time, and a lot of that was expressed through the many restaurant kitchens and meals I enjoyed this past year. Let’s face it – there was a lot on my plate in 2011 and a lot of mandatory eating in both Charleston, SC and Savannah, GA as I was researching Food Lovers’ Guide to Charleston and Savannah and the upcoming Savannah Chef’s Table.

Time and again, my palate kept going back to simple things. The stuff  that really wowed me was not necessarily “haute”, but down-home, done really, really right. Think fried chicken and panna cotta, burgers and pimento,  crispy, crunch salads, pickles and fried pig skin, and you’re sort of on the same track I’ve been following all year here in the south. I call the style “Southern rustica” and I’m thrilled that chefs like Sean Brock, Mike Lata, Craig Deihl and so many other are bringing it home, again and at last. Local, national, and international chefs heard our collective call for comfort and answered with a potent brew of meticulously sourced produce/products, prepared with simplicity and precision, and a generous dash of love.

I’ve been thinking about some of my favorite dishes that I’ve eaten this  year, and the dishes that follow below are the ones that I’m still thinking about, in some cases, many months later. That’s some powerful goodness.  Thank you to all who helped make that happen!

Panna Cotta

What is it about this cooked cream that almost immediately transports me to that cocoon of safety and comfort that was my childhood? It seems like it was everywhere this year and that is a good thing. I don’t have a photo of the creamy, just right panna cotta layered with silky butterscotch and a mountain of whipped cream that I enjoyed at Husk, just a few short weeks ago, but it’s one of the best things I had all year. A close second was this slightly more elegant version I had at sister restaurant, McCrady’s.

McCrady's Bay Leaf Panna Cotta with Pomegranate and Vanilla

The panna cotta barely quivered, just as it should, and was infused with the subtlety of bay leaf. Crunchy bites of freeze dried white chocolate and ruby red, tart/sweet pomegranate seeds were exquisite, and talk about beautiful to look at.

Simply Salads and Crab Cakes

EVO in Park Circle, North Charleston is nationally celebrated for their amazing, wood-fired pizzas, but their salads, always composed of the freshest ingredients from local purveyors and idyllically dressed, are some of the best around. This white melon beauty, dressed ever so slightly with ribbons of salty, savory prosciutto, fruity, extra virgin olive oil and a dash of freshly ground black pepper, was a late summer menu special that remains perfectly fresh in my mind some six months later.

Another memorable salad moment was enjoyed on the sunny, back porch of The Starland Cafe on a hot, hot August day in Savannah, GA. This colorfully painted Victorian house on the south side of town is widely recognized for its veggie/vegan magic, and The Kitchen Sink salad, dressed in a succulent Tomato Oil Infused Buttermilk, miraculously marries ingredients as diverse as red grapes, artichoke hearts, asparagus, golden raisins, red onion, green apple, crunchy noodles, fire roasted tomatoes and more into a unified, heaping bowl of garden fresh deliciousness.

Just because, I’ve indulged in Michelle Weaver’s of Charleston Grill fame quite-possibly very-best-in-the-world crab cake on several occasions this past year. Binding-free chunks of sweet lump crab with a crackling, crunchy, caramelized sear and a puddle of a silky beurre blanc, fresh herbs and candy sweet tomatoes are all great reasons to give this beauty a try!

Charleston Grill's Best-in-the-World Crab Cake

Crazy for Fried Chicken

Though I was born in ‘Bama, I was deprived of real-deal fried chicken until I moved to Charleston 11 years ago. Its prevalence and perfection in these parts is one of the reasons why I personally thank God I live here at least 12 times a year, and that usually happens after I’ve visited Martha Lou’s Kitchen in Charleston, or Mrs. Wilkes’ Boarding House in Savannah. One as succulent as the other, both are custom made to order, have a light, yielding but toothsome crunch, and are deeply seasoned down to the very last bite.

This year, Husk and The Glass Onion, started doing their own versions of the stuff. I haven’t sampled either yet, but the crispy fried chicken leg at The Glass Onion is always delicious and one of the best things I ate this year. Perched on a generous bed of whipped mashed potatoes and sauteed turnip greens, it’s as good as fried and served piping hot from the pan with a zippy sauce that changes with the day and what’s available.

Crspy Chicken at The Glass Onion

Brandade Puffs and Alabama Barbecue Sauce

Brandade, a virtual French peasant food composed of salt cod and potatoes, takes on a new, rustic, elegant twist at The Macintosh, one of Charleston’s newest and best restaurants.  In the hands of super talented executive chef Jeremiah Bacon, the brandade is formed into individual little balls and puffed into ethereal lightness, breaded and fried. Served with a creamy, vinegar rich sauce, it’s another one of the best things I had the pleasure of eating this year.

The Macintosh takes Brandade to new heights!

Big Surprise!

Some of the best things in life are surprises, and that includes finding exquisite food at a time and a place you weren’t really expecting it.  That happened to me this year in a big way at the brand new Butcher & Bee. Predominantly a sandwich shop with a hyper fresh and local angle situated well uptown, I visited on a sleepy, lazy Sunday for what turned out to be the best meal I had all year, and with two of the best dishes in ONE place. The artist in the kitchen? Chef/Partner Stuart Tracy, and does he ever know and love his cooking stuff.

The burger, a softly packed patty of grass-fed beef is sandwiched between oven-fresh brioche they bake in house (along with many other types of bread) and topped with an oozing layer of gorgeous pimento cheese and an inch of cold, crunchy, tangy pickles. It is insanely delicious. I think it’s the best burger I’ve ever had in my life.

Burger of the Year at Butcher & Bee

As if all that  weren’t enough, the ketchup is made in-house!

Before the burger, I enjoyed a gorgeous plate of nutty, roasted Brussel sprouts graced with a  bit of bacon, crispy, tart Granny Smith apple slices, browned butter, a dusting of salty peanuts and a sweet/spicy vinegar.

Butcher & Bee does Sprouts Right.

Dessert was a cream puff dream. C’mon! Talk about comfort done right.

It’s been a wonderful year for food and friends. Thank goodness, they’re always there for us, even when the rest of the world gets crazy. Wishing you a healthy, happy and delicious 2012!

Book Give-Away – Food Lovers’ Guide to Charleston and Savannah

What were your favorite food finds in 2011? I’d love to hear about them in the comment section here. The most compelling entry, submitted before the end of New Year’s Day, January 1, 2012, will receive a signed copy of my just released new book. The winner will be notified on this blog.

Good luck!

Food Favorites in order of appearance in this blog post:

www.huskrestaurant.com

www.mccradysrestaurant.com

www.evopizza.com

www.yelp.com/biz/starland-cafe-savannah

www.charlestongrill.com

www.yelp.com/biz/martha-lous-kitchen-charleston

www.ilovetheglassonion.com

www.themacintoshcharleston.com

www.butcherandbee.com

Super-Sexy Scuppernong and Pomegranate Tartlets

(Makes 12 individual servings)

Petite, ruby-red pomegranate seeds and clunky-looking scuppernongs may seem like strange tart-fellows. Though the former is a berry and the latter is a variety of the muscadine grape, they have much in common. Both are harvested during cool weather, both are tart-sweet, and both have a very long history. The scuppernong is the state fruit of North Carolina, where it has been harvested (as well as throughout the Southeast) for centuries. It is named after a river that runs through that lush state. The pomegranate dates back to ancient times in the Middle East, where it was grown in Asia and India, though now it is grown throughout the world.

The crunchy, pop-in-your mouth pomegranate seeds form the first layer of the filling, which is topped with a lemony, cotton-white mousse. Prepared puff pastry shells form the tart casings, while the coulis swirls around the plate in unrestrained regal splendor. All can be prepped ahead and plated at the last second, making these perfect for any occasion where elegance is on the menu. If scuppernongs are not available where you are, substitute Concord grapes or another full-flavored grape.

Super Sexy Scuppernong and Pomegranate Tartlets. Beautiful photo by Helene Dujardin.

Equipment Needed: Parchment paper, baking sheet

2 packages Pepperidge Farm Puff Pastry Shells (or 2 Pepperidge Farm Puff Pastry Sheets cut into rounds with 2-inch round pastry cutters)

1 egg-wash (yolk, splash water, pinch salt blended together)

Coulis

3 cups whole fresh scuppernongs, rinsed

1 cup pomegranate juice

1/2 cup water

1 cinnamon stick

2 tablespoons sugar

Mousse

1 packet Knox unflavored gelatin

1 tablespoon warm water

1 cup 2% plain Greek yogurt

Zest from one lemon

1/2 cup local honey

1 cup cold whipping cream

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Seeds from one pomegranate, for garnish

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper and arrange the pastry shells on it, about 1 inch apart. Brush the tops (not sides!) of each lightly with egg wash. Bake about 25 minutes, until fluffy and golden. Set aside to cool when done.

To prepare the coulis, combine the scuppernongs,  pomegranate juice, water, cinnamon stick and sugar in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes, until the scuppernongs have popped and the liquid has reduced by half. Set aside to cool.

To prepare the mousse, combine the gelatin and water in a small glass or cup. Stir to dissolve. Once fully dissolved, whisk the gelatin in a medium bowl with the yogurt, zest and honey. In a separate cold bowl,  using a hand mixer or a whisk, mount the whipping cream with the vanilla. Whip until fluffy and firm. To finish the mousse, whisk one-third of the cream into the yogurt mixture. Fold the remaining cream, in two batches, into the yogurt mixture. Chill, covered, in the refrigerator. (Note: This can be made several hours in advance).

To finish the coulis, remove and discard the cinnamon stick and smash the cooled mixture with a masher or a fork to release as much flesh as possible from the scuppernongs.  Drain the mixture through a fine sieve into a small bowl, pressing with the back of a ladle to release the juices. Driscard the grape skin/seed solids. The remaining liquid is your wonderful coulis! Chill.

Now, separate the seeds from the pomegranate. To do this, cut the pomegranate into quarters. Peel the seeds away from their pulp (also called aril). Do this with patience, it takes a little time. Your goal is to separate the bitter pulp from the seeds and discard the pulp.

To assemble the tartlets, gently peel the “tops” off the baked pastry shells, along with some of the inside pastry to form a “home” for the tart filling. Place one tablespoon of pomegranate seeds in the bottom of each. Top with 2 heaping tablespoons of mousse. Serve on individual plates with a generous swirl of the coulis and a sprinkling of the pomegranate seeds. Keep cold for up to 1 hour until serving. Better yet, serve immediately.

Cooking is like that for me, and probably for most people that love to cook. It’s meditative, nurturing, soothing, and frequently evokes warm, loving thoughts and poignant memories.   And cooking is what happens in the kitchen.

The space and soul of a kitchen can do much to enhance or detract from the entire cooking experience. Not unlike men, they come in all shapes and sizes and with assorted temperaments. My kitchens past, not unlike lovers past,  run the gamut.

The very first after college kitchen, was in my apartment in Chicago. The apartment, in an old brownstone mansion-turned-apartment-building, was huge and beautiful (or at least it seemed so at the time), but the kitchen was literally housed in a closet. It had a tiny, ancient oven that probably dated back to the 1950′s and absolutely didn’t understand the concept of calibration.  My work “space” was actually a cutting board placed over the sink and the refrigerator had enough room for a grocery bag full of food and not much more. Yet, like my first true love from college days, Dan Cox, I loved that kitchen with all of my heart. After a stressful day of work and travel, huddling in that kitchen and chopping with my dull, cheap knives and stewing in battered, cheap pots, was like nirvana to me. I felt loved there. I even cooked my first Thanksgiving dinner in that kitchen. Small matter that my friend Chris lost most of it within hours, saying simply, “he ate too much.”

Many more kitchens would follow, like the pink and blue puff cloud kitchen of the early days of my marriage in a Minneapolis duplex, the tiny, pie slice-shaped kitchen of my tiny country house in Chalabre, France with pastoral views that always included sleepy, fat, grazing cattle and a soulful 16th-century church. These were much, much loved, and both so different from each other, but it was the kitchen in my house in Jackson Hole, WY, that stands out the most.

My husband Greg and I moved there after he sold his business. It was a big house with gorgeous, breath-taking, wrap-around views of the Tetons and the sounds of The Snake River babbling through open windows when weather allowed. The counters were black granite with flecks of dark green and the cupboards were pine – so new you could still smell the freshness of the wood. There were two Sub-Zero’s – one fridge and one freezer – and both the size of the moose (I called them “meese” in plural form) that frequently roamed through my back yard. There was even a warming oven, two baking ovens, and, this was the biggest deal of all, a six-burner, gas burning Viking stove.

I couldn’t believe it when I saw it. Greg had selected the house himself (I was still back in Minneapolis). While exquisite on every level, it occurred to me that the reason he had selected this house, sweetly, was for me and the kitchen.  Freshly back from France and Le Cordon Bleu, he knew this would be my wonderland, and he was right. Gone were the cheap knives and pots and pans – I had the best of everything. I spent whole days and weeks in that kitchen, cooking and recipe testing. As much as I loved it and still think of it often, though, I must admit, I never felt quite at home in that kitchen. It felt just a tad too fancy, a tad too much, a tad too perfect. A little like a man I once dated who was so beautiful, I felt a little frumpy around him.

I don’t have pictures, at least not literal or digital, of all of these kitchens, but the memories are vivid on all levels – sights, sounds, scents, even meals, all firmly imbedded in my increasingly long memory trail.

I do have a picture of my favorite and most beloved kitchen of all, though.

My Charleston Kitchen - the greatest kitchen of all kitchens.

Here she is, in all her slightly battered, sun-kissed, and ultra-utilitarian glory. I’ve lived, worked and loved in this kitchen for seven years, and these have been some of the happiest years of my life. In this kitchen, I’ve created and tested recipes for many columns and my first three cookbooks. Almost all of that time, either my dog Tann Mann and/or my cat Chutney, have been my constant companions, watching loyally as I worked.  Silent and peaceful, cooking here and looking into my neighbors’ garden, where their happy children take turns on the long, rope swing hanging from the Live Oak, almost always with bows in their hair and laughter gurgling from their souls.

My stove is a (relatively) lowly Jenn-Air with a ventilating system that doesn’t work. I’m waiting for the whole thing to break before I buy a new one, but for now, this one works  just fine – except when grilling or high heat is involved. It can’t vent (and the fire department and immediate neighbors know this), but it sure can calibrate. My old, time-worn wooden cutting board is situated right beside the stove and right above my trash can. My knives are to my right, and seasonings to the left. Just behind and within easy reach is my General Electric refrigerator, always full of fresh, seasonal food and constant inspiration.

Not too fancy, not too “not,” my Charleston kitchen, like true love, is just right. I am thankful for this kitchen, friends, loves, health and memories, past and present.

Wishing you all a beautiful holiday season.

It’s a nifty and whimsical trend that’s well-suited to the eclectic crowd – from farmers’ market denizens to COC students, families and business types – that flock to this hip part of town for food, art, and drink.  For Pastry Chef Allison Smith, who opened Glazed back in early October, it’s all for the love of pastry, especially doughnuts. A 9- year veteran of the F & B business, the Culinary Institute of Charleston grad left her most recent post at Anson to dedicate herself entirely to her funky, fun and delightfully delicious new doughnut shop. For Smith, the time to make the doughnuts is 3 a.m. on weekdays when she joins her staff of two bakers to crank out a daily array of at least 8 – 10 rotating doughnut flavors.

Doughnut Lover's Glaze Over with Choices at Glazed

Smith has two core recipes for the doughnuts: cake and yeast. While the cake doughnut is crumbly, tender on the inside, and crunchy on the outside, it’s the yeast doughnuts (almost exclusively the “glazed” variety) that truly shine, in more ways than one. She tweaked her recipe over the years, comparing and contrasting it with “tons” of others she encountered to come up with her own. The results are airy and irresistible. It’s the kind of doughnut that slightly resists with sweet crunch as you sink your teeth into it, then slowly implodes and melts into its delicious self, until it’s all gone, leaving a lingering happy memory in its admittedly fattening wake.

Glazed cranks out at least 8 to 10 doughnut flavors daily. Glazed fans can count on at least 7 doughnut regulars daily: raspberry glazed, berry-filled, cream-filled, “some kind of chocolate,” and two “seasonal” doughnuts. Right now, the seasonal choices include Ginger Cranberry and The Sweet Potato topped with a brown butter glaze and pecans, that is until Smith comes up with something new.

Mexican Chocolate and Raspberry Glazed Doughnuts on display at Glazed.

As far as coming up with her exceptionally creative and balanced flavor inspirations ( a huge part of the fun for both her and her customers), Smith just rolls with “whatever combinations I like to eat.” For example, yesterday, it was a banana pudding doughnut based upon the “most amazing banana pudding,” she says. Other days, it’s been as inventive and delicious as Strawberry Lime Basil, Salted Caramel Apple and The Purple Goat filled with berry goat cheese and a lavender glaze. It’s pairings such as these that give some of Glazed doughnuts an almost savory edge; a kind of true “cook’s” doughnut not unlike the many delicious mixed drinks being muddled and concocted at nearby bars and restaurants such as The Cocktail Club and The Belmont.  At the latter, the drinks seem more like a layered, complex meal to be savored, while the former definitely are a testament to Smith’s ability to think and bake her way well-outside of the mundane doughnut box.

While a little pricey at almost $2 a pop, Glaze offers a worthwhile indulgence for any bona fide doughnut lover. There is coffee, too, and the always welcome service with a smile.

Glazed Gourmet Doughnuts

481 King Street, Charleston

(843) 577-5557

www.glazedgourmet.com

Mon.-Fri., 7 a.m.-3 p.m., Sat., 9 a.m.-3 p.m., Sun., 10 a.m.-3 p.m.