Petite Packages, Huge Lowcountry Flavor

Posted on May 17, 2012 by holly

When I was a kid growing up in rural Massachusetts, Memorial Day meant summer, summer meant long vacations in Maine, and vacations in Maine meant long days clambering on rocky beaches and splashing in cool waters with my brothers, sister and the seven-strong O’Brien clan. Long, dreamy nights almost always sealed these happy days around a fire on the O’Brien’s beach where we would all gorge ourselves on lobster, corn on the cob, and clams. Some days, we’d tool around in our faithful Vista Cruiser station wagon and find one of the many road-side shacks serving up more of the same, with plenty of drawn “buttah” for generous dipping.

Back then, this budding epicurean and eventual chef, thought I had tasted the best possible food on the planet, and didn’t even dare to dream that I ever would come that close to that kind of taste and texture perfection ever again.  Fresh Maine lobster and clams, all salty, sweet and somewhere creamy, seemed (and still do) like some of God’s finest food creations – incomparable to just about anything else.

Fortunately, the road that lay ahead has been a long and tasty one, seasoned with long stints in Paris and rural Southern France and many delicious meals along the way.  Then, I arrived in Charleston, and that’s when an entirely new food love affair began. Its name is “shrimp.”

Spanking fresh Lowcountry shrimp fresh from the fryer and served dock-side.

Lowcountry shrimp is like that Maine lobster, utterly delicious and unlike any other you’ll find around the globe. Whether the spring and summer’s white species or fall’s brown species, they’re coddled by the pluff mud bottoms, creeks, marshes,  and tides that work in tandem to forge an impossibly distinct flavor that screams “Lowcountry.”   As far as I’m concerned, any other shrimp is an imposter.

I’ve had some darn good shrimp around these parts, but earlier this week, I was like that little kid in Maine all over again, beside myself with glee that I was savoring one of the best possible things to eat on the planet.

The setting and company probably had a lot to do with it. I was invited to join my friends Genny and Hugh on their creek-side dock in Hollywood, SC for a fish fry. I’d been there before, so I knew what I was in for – lots of laughs, delicious, salt-air breezes, and wide-open vistas of sparkling water and swaying marshes that seem to go on forever until they reach the sea. On past occasions, too, Hugh has proved himself to be one heck of a great cook. The last time was a Lowcountry boil of crabs pulled up right from the dock, kielbasa, and corn,  drained and poured out onto newspapers for all to enjoy.

This time, he outdid himself. The shrimp had been brought in that morning from a next door neighbor’s shrimp boat, netted from Lowcountry waters just a few miles from where we were sitting. Petite, pale pink jewels glimmered with freshness as he gave each a brief bath in buttermilk generously seasoned with black pepper and a bit of salt. After, each was tossed in the lightest cloak of seasoned flour. Then, the trick, as Hugh said, is to fry them in small batches (as in 4 or 5) so the oil temperature stays consistent. The second trick, Hugh said, as he poured the first batch out onto a paper towel, is to eat them hot from the fryer.

That part, I assure you, was not too difficult. After the first batch, the air already smelled sweetly of shrimp, and our stomachs were rumbling.  The first bite was the sweetest, yielding to the slightest, just right crunch of the flour crust and right into the heart of the matter – sweet, milky, briny Lowcountry shrimp. I think the three of us went through four or five batches before we even got to the catfish. With each bite, my gratitude for the glory of the Lowcountry and her shrimp bounty, as well as the blessing of good friends, grew.  And, so did my love for one of the world’s most perfect foods – fresh, fried Lowcountry shrimp. And, no “buttah” needed.

RECIPE

Although nothing really beats the simple deliciousness of Hugh’s fried shrimp, the following is a great, easy to prepare recipe from Southern Farmers Market Cookbook (Gibbs Smith, June 2009) by yours truly that is an effortless and delicious shrimp-stuffed tomato delight – perfect for any Memorial Day or upcoming summer celebration as tomatoes just start to come into peak season.

Tomatoes Stuffed with Orange-Basil Shrimp Salad

(Serves 4)

4 large, ripe tomatoes

4 cups raw, fresh Lowcountry shrimp, shells on

1 large shallot, finely chopped

2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed orange juice

4 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

8 fresh basil leaves, cut into ribbon-like strips

1 table grated orange zest (optional)

Prepare the tomatoes for stuffing. Cut out the remains of the stem, leaving a trim, even “incision.” Cut an X into the entire top. Fan the four sections open into a circle, to open up the tomato. Using a soup spoon, scoop out the excess flesh and seeds from the inside of the tomato, reserving for another use (as in a sauce, for example). Place the tomatoes on a plate and reserve.

Rinse the shrimp and drain in a colander. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add the shrimp and reduce to a simmer. Cook until uniformly pale pink in color, or until the shrimp start to float to the top, about 1 – 2 minutes; remove from the heat and drain. Rinse with cold water until cool. Shell and devein the shrimp; chop coarsely.

Place the shrimp in a large bowl with all of the remaining ingredients except the basil and zest and stir to combine. Scoop a fourth of the salad and place it in the center of each prepared tomato. Form the salad into an even, round mound. Put on plate garnished with fresh basil leaves and a sprinkle of grated orange zest. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Welcome to summer….or at least Memorial Day!

 

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Turnips, Parents, and the March of Time

Posted on May 8, 2012 by holly

Every spring, my parents make their annual trek from their winter home in Naples, FL to their summer home in Kansas City. Along the  winding Amtrak railways they make a stop first in Charleston to visit me for about a week, and then head up to Boston to do the same with my twin sister, Heather. It’s a familial tradition that always includes lots of laughs, a few tears, lots of delicious food, lots of wine, lots of long walks, and countless hands of Hearts.

Mom and Dad, affectionately known as Hen and Herb, completed the Charleston leg of their journey two days ago.  All the usual suspects were at play, including lunch at two of my mothers favorite restaurants, Hominy Grill and Magnolias. And, even though she is loathe to deviate from her preferred Charleston restaurant path, Hen (and less reluctantly, Herb) agreed to try some of my newer favorites, including Zen Asian Fusion and Martha Lou’s Kitchen. Of course, there were many meals at my kitchen table, which Hen and Herb, sweetly, declared “the best of all.”

Enjoying lunch in my kitchen with my sweet, hungry dog Tann Mann, Hen, and Herb.

 

But, there was a new,  sad element at play on this occasion. It was evident in my Dad’s and dog’s slowing gaits, my Mother’s increased nap time, and my own aching shoulder. It was even more evident in conversations, many heavily peppered with memories of those long passed, like my Nanna, and those of recent passing, like several of Hen and Herb’s friends. But, it was most evident to me as I sat with my father at a Riverdogs game and watched my nearly 80 year-old father beam with the joy of the small boy he was almost as many years ago when he met his idol, Babe Ruth, and began a life-long love of baseball.  He loved explaining the game to me, and even as he did, I realized with powerful clarity that I wouldn’t always have my Dad or Mom. Tears seeped from my eyes as he described the job of “The Closer,” even as I squeezed my Mom’s hand that much tighter during the fireworks she so loves.

Of course, I’ve always known we won’t always be together in this life, but it really hit home on this trip. Father Time is catching up with all of us. All the more reason to appreciate what we have while we have it, and boy, do I. The house has been painfully silent the last few days as I’ve re-lived the many memories of this past visit both while waking and in dreams. Reality struck this morning, again, when I finally decided to get on the scale after all of that indulgence. The numbers told a cruel, three pound weight gain story.

Small matter, nothing that salads and lots of veggies won’t cure. The recipe that follows is one of my favorites from Southern Farmers Market Cookbook that is the perfect seasonal ticket for light and delicious eating, using two of spring’s sweetest, onions and fresh, creamy turnips, one of my Nanna’s favorites. Both elegant and simple, it’s perfect for early spring entertaining. And, it’s so healthy, it will help stave off Father Time and create memories to last a life time, like my past week with Hen and Herb.

Creamy White Turnip Soup with Spring Onions and Roasted Garlic. Photo by Rick McKee.

 

Creamy White Turnip Soup with Spring Onions and Roasted Garlic

(Serves 4 to 6)

1 head roasted garlic

1 bunch (about 4 cups) white turnips, peeled (outer layer discarded), and cut into 2-inch cubes

1 medium spring onion, root and green top trimmed to 1-inch lengths from the bulb and cut into 8 wedges

4 cups low-sodium chicken stock

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 slices prosciutto, cut into thin strips and 1-inch lengths

1/4 cup creme fraiche or whole cream

Green onion tops to garnish

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Trim the top of the garlic and wrap with foil. Place in the middle of the oven and roast until soft to the touch, about 30 to 45 minutes. When the garlic is cool enough to handle, squeeze out the soft pulp by pressing the blade of a chef’s knife against the bulb to release the roasted flesh; discard the papery casing.

Place the garlic, turnips, onions, and chicken stock in a large saucepan. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until the turnips are tender, about 30 to 45 minutes. Remove from the stove and puree until smooth with a handheld blender or food processor. Return the soup to the pan. Add the nutmeg, prosciutto, and creme fraiche. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer, stirring to blend. Taste and adjust seasonings as required. Garnish with a sprinkling of freshly chopped green onions and serve immediately.

Note: This soup can be prepared in advance and frozen or stored in the refrigerator. However, if you plan to do so, add the cream just before serving, not before storing.

Bon appetit!

 

 

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Summertime and the Chili is Easy

Posted on April 18, 2012 by holly

Lest you fear I’ve completely lost my marbles, I’m aware it’s not summer yet. However, here in balmy Charleston, spring is well past her fullest bloom, though still lovely. The official first waves of feels-like-summer-heat will arrive in a few weeks with the arrival of the Spoletians; invariably the two go together year after year.

So,  I’m a little ahead of myself seasonally, a sensation that started, ironically when I went to the first Charleston farmers’ market of the season a Saturday ago. Sifting through luscious strawberries, long spears of asparagus, and pungent sweet onions, I was giddy with the fruits of spring. Yet, the grass fed beef and pork sausage I purchased from one of my favorite vendors jump-started my culinary mind to summer. Specifically, peppers, tomatoes, and their culinary bedfellow, chili.

Even in the doggiest days of August heat, I can’t resist making the stuff. So utterly wholesome, I load it up with colorful, peppery heat and plenty of grass-fed beef and beans. I usually finish it with some dark chocolate and a dab of local honey for sweetness, and it’s utterly delicious and very nutritious.

Though it’s a bit early for the season, that’s what I found myself doing once again yesterday, and loving every minute of it. The fragrance of making chili is at least half the fun and my dog, Tann Mann,  makes a virtual dance out of it the process that makes me smile.

This time, and in keeping with the true spring season, I decided to add some color and fiber in the form of Swiss chard. It’s a mild, tender green, and just needs a few minutes of cooking to wilt, soften and heat through at the very end of the cooking process. Think parsley on steroids! Be sure to wash the chard thoroughly, break off and discard the tough stems, and dry well.  I cut them into thin strips, or a chiffonade. This is easily done by stacking the leaves, rolling them into a bundle, and  cut into thin strips, horizontally across the bundle.

A chiffonade of Swiss chard.

Another nice thing about this recipe, is that you can store it in the refrigerator for a couple days, where the flavors will continue to develop. Re-heat it in the batch sizes you need only, as you want to avoid over-cooking the Swiss chard, which will make it soggy and more grey than green.

To keep the fat content very low and the flavor high, I used sausage, too, but drained it very well after the browning process to remove almost all but a few tablespoons of the fat. This is why it’s important to add the majority of the spices after the browning and draining process, otherwise they will end up down your sink or in your garbage disposal, instead of in your chili. Feel free to lighten up on the heat if you have a tender palate. As always, be sure to taste and modify salt and pepper quantities to suit your taste. Happy cooking!

Chunky Spunky Farmers’ Market Chili

(Makes 10 – 12 portions)

Chunky Spunky Farmers' Market Chili

 

One Tbs Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 pound grass fed beef (or substitute organic or ground beef)

1 pound sweet sausage (casings removed if applicable)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 Tbs roasted ground cumin

1/2 tsp red chili pepper flakes

generous dash paprika

pinch ground cloves

1 Tbs Mexican oregano

1 Tbs thyme leaves

1 medium Bermuda onion, finely chopped (about 2 cups)

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

1 red bell pepper,  halved, seeds removed, and finely chopped

1 poblano pepper, halved, seeds removed, and finely chopped

2 habenero chiles, halved, seeds removed, and minced (Note: wear protective gloves if your hands are sensitive to the heat from the chile oil)

1 jalapeno pepper, halved, seeds removed, and finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped

1  1/2 cups medium bodied, good quality red wine (such as Pinot Noir)

2 cups quartered rainbow Heirloom cherry or grape tomatoes

One 15.5  ounce can black beans

One 15.5 can Great Northern beans

1 1/2 cups beef stock (or water)

1 square (about 1 Tbs, chopped) dark chocolate, at least 70% cacao

1 Tbs honey

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Garnish: Sour Cream

In a large soup pot or Dutch Oven, heat the olive oil over medium high heat. Add the beef and the sausage, crumbling into small chunks as you’re adding. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Stir, occasionally, continuing to break the meat into small, uniform pieces. Cook until browned, about five minutes. Drain off all but 2 tablespoons of the rendered fat, discarding. Return the meat to the pan.

Over medium heat, add the cumin, red chile pepper flakes, paprika, cloves, Mexican oregano, and thyme. Stir to combine. Add the onion, celery, bell pepper, poblano, habenero, jalapeno and garlic. Continue to cook over medium to medium low heat, stirring, until all of the vegetables have just softened, about five minutes.

Increase the heat to high. Add the wine and continue to cook until it has reduced by half.  Reduce the heat to medium. Add the tomatoes, black beans, Great Northern beans (both with their liquor – it contains nutrients and fiber), and beef stock. Increase heat and bring up to a low simmer. Stir in the chocolate and the honey. Taste and add salt and pepper lightly as needed.

Cook on a low simmer, uncovered for about 30 minutes. Serve very hot in shallow bowls with a generous dollop of sour cream. (Note: Left-overs can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. The chili also freezes very well for up to 3 months).

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Cool Hand Frank

Posted on April 10, 2012 by holly

 

Review of “Cool Inside: Hank’s Seafood Restaurant” (Peninsula Grill Associates, LLC, March 1, 2012)

Restaurant cookbooks, like restaurants themselves, are a mixed bag. Some are heavily weighted with ego and over-the-top, confusing, classical instruction, rendering them basically useless for the home cook. Others are just plain mediocre, a stock-piling of poorly written recipes and haste-makes-waste production, that render them useless all together, except maybe for the author’s proud mother and a few scattered, distant family members. Then, there are the top-tier variety, the true labor of love restaurant cookbooks that capture the heart and soul of the restaurant and the people behind it while delivering lovely prose, photography, and recipes that will work in the home kitchen.

The recently released “Cool Inside: Hank’s Seafood Restaurant” (Peninsula Grill Associations, LLC), fits ever so neatly into the latter category. Co-written by endearing Hank’s Chef Frank McMahon and Charleston Magazine’s Melissa Bigner, the cookbook is a beautifully compiled, photographed (by talented Peter Frank Edwards), well-organized, and soulful ode not just to Charleston, but also to the gems of the sea, creeks, and rivers that surround her.

The "cool" cover for Cool Inside, featuring Chef Frank McMahon. Photography by Peter Frank Edwards.

The first several pages  are a little heavy-handed on sometimes uninteresting, minutia details (except perhaps for the most die-hard Hank’s fans) about how and why the restaurant got started. But, the read-speed and interest quickly accelerate once Chef Frank McMahon’s voice graces the pages, joyfully dancing with the humor, lilt and cadence of McMahon’s native Limerick, Ireland dialect and substantial personal charm.

Together, McMahon and Bigner find his voice, both literally in quotes such as “The first time I had grits, I thought they were bad polenta that tasted like wallpaper paste.” Or, describing working for his father in their family restaurant, “Every day, (I’d) get home from rugby practice, I’d get busy skinning sole, chopping parsley, cleaning – whatever needed to be done. I couldn’t do right be him…”  Bigner also weaves a figurative sub-text of what drives McMahon as a chef and leader in the kitchen,  beginning with a love of seafood he nurtured as a boy in Ireland and mastered at The Culinary Institute of America and working with French seafood maestro Eric Ripert at Le Bernadin in NYC. Throughout nearly all of the 241 pages, McMahon’s work ethic, sincerity, humor and love of his work, staff, and Hank’s shine through loud and clear, making this book as delightful to read as it will be to cook from.  Breathtaking photography pops on nearly every page of gorgeously plated, hunger-inducing dishes, as well as happy scenes from the kitchen, dining room and around Charleston, making this book perfectly at home on any coffee table, as well.

But, whatever you do,  don’t leave it there gathering dust. This is a cook’s cookbook, through and through. Like McMahon himself, the 100 recipes in the book are direct and straight-forward. Though he explains technique, he explains it in a language even the most novice home cook can understand, tossing in helpful tips all along the way. Perhaps the most invigorating chapter is the one on the sauces, vinagrettes, and  dressings McMahon considers crucial when preparing and serving seafood.  Herb and flavor infused ceviche and tartare make solid showings, as well, and there is an entire chapter dedicated to the nuances of preparing fried seafood.

This book is a must-have for lover’s of Hank’s Seafood Restaurant, seafood, and yes, even Charleston. The hardcover book retails for $50 + tax and is available for sale at the restaurant, 10 Hayne Street, Charleston, SC 29401. Call (843) 723-3474 for details. Plans for the not-too-distant-future include selling the book at Hank’s website, www.hanksseafoodrestaurant.com

Here’s a seasonal recipe excerpt:

Creole Collard Soup

(Yields 2 1/2 Quarts)

Creole Collard Soup from Cool Inside: Hank's Seafood Restaurant (Peninsula Grill Associates, LLC). Photo by Peter Frank Edwards.

 

1 tsp canola oil

1 cup diced andouille sausage

1 cup diced celery

1 cup diced carrot

1 cup diced onion

1 tsp minced garlic

1 Tbs Cajun seasoning

2 cups diced fresh tomato

2 cups collard cooking liquor, plus 2 cups collard greens (see page 39 – recipe to follow below)

2 cups chicken stock

kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Heat the oil in a medium stockpot over medium heat. Add the sausage and cook until brown, 3 – 5 minutes. Add the celery, carrot, onion, garlic and Cajun seasoning and cook for 4 minutes. Add tomato and cook for 2 minutes. Add the collard liquor, collards and chicken stock and simmer for 45 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

(Note: Preparations for the collard liquor is provided under a separate recipe on page 39 of the book. It’s essentially the cooking liquid from braised and seasoned collards. The recipe follows below):

Hank’s Collard Greens

(Serves 4)

2 bunches collards, washed, stems removed, and cut into 3-inch squares

3 cups chicken stock (Note: The book provides a recipe on another page, or use good quality prepared chicken stock)

1 ham hock

1/2 tsp Tabasco sauce

1/2 cup diced onion

1/2 cup smoky BBQ sauce

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 cup apple cider vinegar

kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Combine all of the ingredients except the collards  and salt and pepper in a 5-quart stockpot and bring to a boil. Add collards and return to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Pull the meat from the ham hock and break it up into small pieces. Add the meat back to the pot and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Recipes from “Cool Inside: Hank’s Seafood Restaurant” (Peninsula Grill Associates, LLC, March 1, 2012). Photography by Peter Frank Edwards.

 

 

 

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Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats Set Sail For Seamless Entertaining

Posted on April 3, 2012 by holly

The last year and a half has been so crazy busy in my world, I’ve rarely had time to settle into one of my favorite things in the world to do, simple, joyful cooking. The only thing that has that beat, is cooking for friends, which is something I enjoyed doing this weekend. Planning the menu, doing the prep, setting the table, and all the things that go into making a successful meal, set the groove for a happy mood and an enjoyable meal.

Appetizers are the starting point for any meal, and as such, are perhaps one of the most crucial components to set a successful, tasty entertaining stage. I came across some beautiful, fresh local shrimp at the market, and decided to put them to use in appetizers. I liked the idea of shrimp salad – a Southern staple after all – but wanted to keep it super light and sophisticated. So, the mayo and calorie count is really low, and the flavor comes mostly from fresh lime juice and zest, and oodles of finely chopped fresh chives. Instead of bread, I decided to use delicate, crunchy endive leaves to “wrap” the salad into individual bites. It works nicely, but bread will do just fine, too.

For this salad, I roasted the shrimp, a trick I picked up from The Barefoot Contessa’s Ina Garten. Roasting at a high heat takes just minutes and really helps preserve the flavor and the nutrients of the shrimp. The best part about all of this? You can prep the salad the day ahead and scoop the salad into the boats as your guests are arriving, which is exactly how it played out at my house on Sunday night.

These would look beautiful on your Easter or any spring holiday table. Happy holidays and happy cooking!

Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats

 

Elegant Shrimp Salad Boats

(Makes about 12 appetizer servings)

3/4 of a pound fresh, shelled shrimp, de-veined and rinsed

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

Generous dash Tabasco Sauce

1 shallot, finely chopped

Zest of 1 lime, finely chopped

Juice of 1/2 lime

3 tablespoons finely chopped chives

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 – 2 Belgian endive lettuce heads, trimmed, rinsed, separated and patted dry.

Preheat oven to 425F.  Arrange the shrimp on a roasting sheet and toss to coat with the olive oil. Season lightly with salt and freshly ground pepper. Roast for 3 minutes, or until just opaque and lightly pink. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Once cool enough to handle, chop the shrimp very finely (see picture). Place the chopped shrimp in a medium bowl and combine with the mayonnaise, Tabasco, chopped shallot, lime zest, lime juice, and chopped chives. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper. (Note: This can be prepared up to one day in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator).

To prep the endives, trim a bit from their root base and remove any tattered, browned outer leaves. The leaves that are inside are a bit sturdier and best for the boats in this recipe. They can also be prepped ahead, but store them in the fridge wrapped in a damp towel. They should not be exposed to open air or they may discolor.

To finish the boats, simply scoop a rounding, heaping tablespoon into the center of each boat. Top with a drizzle of fresh chives, if desired. Arrange prettily on an attractive service plate.

 

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St. Patrick’s Day Surprise – Shapely Shepherd’s Pie

Posted on March 16, 2012 by holly

Even though I’m about 50% Irish, my maiden name is McCauley, and my grandfather on my father’s side was born in the old country,  I  really struggle with St. Patrick’s Day. I’m extremely proud of my heritage, and to see it reduced to green beer, frequently sodden behavior, and frequently bad food leave me grumpier than an extremely unlucky leprechaun. That is, until someone makes me a really top-notch Shepherd’s Pie, like the one in the recipe that follows.

Adapted from my recently released book,  Tart Love – Sassy, Savory, and Sweet (Gibbs Smith, October, 2011),  the traditional free-form potato-topped casserole is encased with a pie pastry. Truly delicious and nutritious, it can be made ahead of time, and the only (real – not dyed!!)  green thing about it comes from the peas and the parsley. Happy St. Patrick’s Day!

Lovely photo by Helene Dujardin

Shapely Shepherd’s Pie

(Serves Eight)

Fluffy mashed potatoes topped with fragrant grass-fed beef (or substitute lamb) and a layer of spring peas wrapped with a casing of buttery pastry makes this dish a winner any time of year, but it’s particularly well-suited to early spring, and, of course, St. Patrick’s Day.

Equipment needed: One 9-inch deep-dish (2 – 3 inches deep) pie pan

1 Recipe Master Savory Pastry

2 1/2 cups White Lily all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons sea salt or kosher salt

2 sticks (1 cup) AA grade unsalted butter, cold and cut into 1/4-inch cubes

3 tablespoons ice- cold water, or just enough to hold the pastry together.

Mashed Potatoes

2 russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch cubes (about 4 cups)

2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

Water to cover

1/4 – 1/2 cup whole cream (depending on desired texture)

2 – 3 tablespoons sweet butter

1/2 teaspoon prepared horseradish

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Peas

2 cups shelled fresh peas, blanched and refreshed, or 2 cups frozen peas

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons salt

Meat Filling

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound ground grass-fed beef (or substitute lamb or traditional ground beef)

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

1 1/2 cups minced fresh carrots

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley

2 scallions, trimmed and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

Finishing

1 egg wash (yolk mixed with a sprinkle of water, dash of salt)

1 cup sour cream

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

Freshly ground black pepper

Prepare the pastry. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with a plastic blade, pulse together the salt and the flour to combine. Add the butter all at once, and pulse 40 – 50 times or until the butter is roughly the size of small peas. Through the mouth of the food processor, very slowly stream in the water while pulsing, until the pastry just holds together in a messy, loose clump. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, form into a 1″-inch high disk, wrap with plastic wrap, and refrigerate at least 30 minutes or over night. Roll out on a lightly floured surface and line the pie pan with the pastry, forming a pretty, slightly elevated border. Refrigerate until ready to use.

For the mashed potatoes, place the peeled, chopped potatoes in a medium pan with salt and enough water to just cover. Bring to a boil then reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes. Drain potatoes in a colander; return to the same pan and let them steam over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes to remove any excess water. Add the cream, butter, horseradish, and seasoning. Mash with a potato masher, stirring to incorporate all of the ingredients. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Let cool, then refrigerate to cool completely.

For the peas, bring a medium pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add peas and blanch for about 1 minutes. Drain in a colander and “shock” by running very cold water over the peas. (If using frozen peas, skip this step.)

To make the meat filling, heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add beef, season generously with salt and pepper, and brown for 4 to 5 minutes, stirring to break up and cook evenly. Drain off any excess fat, leaving 1 – 2 tablespoons in the pan. Reduce heat to medium. Add onion, garlic, and carrots; stir to coat. Let vegetables cook into the meat until just wilted, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in parsley, scallions, Worcestershire, and mustard. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Refrigerate to chill the meat mixture completely.

Putting it together: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.  Gently brush the bottom, sides and edges of the chilled pastry shell with the egg wash using a pastry brush. Spoon about 1 cup of the potatoes into the bottom of the prepared pie pastry, smoothing to distribute evenly along the bottom and about 2 ” of the sides. Add all of the cooled beef mixture, and spread evenly. Top this with the cooled blanched peas or 2 cups of frozen peas. Top with the remaining mashed potatoes, smoothing gently with a spatula and leaving at least 1/2-inch (including the crust) free of filling, since the potatoes “puff” while they cook. Cook for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the crust is golden brown.

Meanwhile, whisk together the sour cream, mustard, horseradish and pepper. Bring to room temperature before serving. Place a generous dollop on or near each slice of the pie.

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Mac ‘n Cheese Dreams

Posted on March 12, 2012 by holly

My friend Laurie and I have known each other for thirty years, going back to our student days at Boston College. She was in Charleston this weekend to marry the love of her life, Mike. The plan was to do the actual ceremony in my garden, but the weather had an other script in play, so we had an intimate ceremony in my living room, which was all the lovelier for the impromptu nature of it all.

Laurie brought her family and close friends with her along with something we have both long-shared – a deep and unabiding love of cheese. So, with the promise of a wine and cheese fest in the garden (now dry) the day after the wedding, she and I both went a little cheese crazy stocking up on the stuff. So, despite a fairly heavy cheese (and wine) hit on Saturday, I was left with several packets of left-over, high quality cheese nubs, along with sweet memories, after everyone departed on Sunday.

With still cool evenings as the days slowly warm and bloom into spring, comfort food comes calling with fervor, and what makes better comfort food than a really excellent mac ‘ n cheese? I love to marry disparate cheeses in a creamy bechamel, melt them down, stir them into some pasta, and bake. The key is to use cheeses that pair well – one or two nutty, another one or two perhaps slightly sweet, or even a nice, mild blue cheese. You want to stick with cheeses with a nice melt factor and the best quality you can afford.

This recipe is a delicious way to use over left-over cheese and it truly warms the heart and soul. It comes together quickly. Grate/chop the cheese while the pasta cooks, prepare the bechamel base, whisk in the cheese, toss and bake. Twenty-five minutes later you have a steaming casserole custom made for cheese lovers. Or, prep ahead, refrigerate overnight and bake it off the next evening. With a side of steamed or roasted asparagus, it makes a dreamy, seasonal spring meal.

Creamy with a sharp edge from blended cheeses, this mac 'n cheese gets a buttery, golden bread crumb crust.

Mac ‘n Cheese Dreams

(Serves 12)

1 pound shell pasta, #50 size (I like De Cecco’s conchiglie rigate)

Cold water to cover

3 tablespoons kosher salt or sea salt

1/2 cup coarsely chopped Morbier

1/2 cup coarsely chopped Brie, rind removed

2 cups grated Gruyere

2 cups grated Muenster

For the cheese sauce base/bechamel:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

3 tablespoons All Purpose flour

4 cups (1 quart) skim milk

Kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste (Note: season according to the saltiness of the cheese. Better to add more later if needed once the cheese has been added).

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

For the bread crumbs:

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup plain bread crumbs

kosher or sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 375F degrees. Generously butter a large baking dish (I used a 4.5 liter Corningware baking dish). Bring a large pot of cold water combined with 3 tablespoons salt up to a rolling boil. Add pasta and stir to blend. Reduce heat to medium high and continue cooking until the pasta is al dente, 10  – 11 minutes. Drain well in a colander. Set aside.

Meanwhile, prep the cheeses and set aside. For the bechamel, melt the butter in a large sauce pan over medium heat. Once melted, whisk in the flour and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, for about 2 minutes. Pour in the milk all at once and bring up to a boil over high heat, whisking constantly. Season to taste with salt and ground black pepper and add the thyme. Once at a boil, reduce to medium heat and whisk in the cheeses, in batches, until thoroughly combined and melted. Add the cooked, drained pasta to the cheese mixture and stir well to coat. Pour the mixture into the buttered baking pan. Set aside briefly.

In a separate saute pan, melt the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons butter over medium heat. When melted, add the bread crumbs and stir to coat. Cook for about 1 minute or until the bread crumbs are just golden. Crumble the bread crumbs evenly over the top of the mac ‘n cheese. Bake in the center of the oven until golden and bubbling, about 25 – 30 minutes. Allow 5 minutes to rest before serving. Sprinkle with some fresh chopped parsley if desired.

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Whisked Away

Posted on March 8, 2012 by holly

Charleston seems to be getting closer to its Euro-roots nearly every day. Fromageries & Patisseries are becoming nearly as prolific here as they are in Paris.

Whisk Bakery is the latest, delicious addition to Charleston’s expanding Euro-inspired culinary camp. A soft opening in mid-February has already landed the old brick wall-lined shop a loyal, eager following at the corner of Meeting Street and entrance to the parking,  and main entry to Charleston Place. When I arrived at about 10 a.m. earlier today, the line was reaching out the door and two German gentlemen were enjoying Germany-native Executive Chef Vinzenz Aschbacher’s oven-warm, flaky whole grain croissants and paper cups full of steaming, strong coffee, which they declared “just like you would find in Europe.”

The cheerful baby blue and white color scheme at Whisk delivers instant appeal.

Naturally, the intoxicating aromas of fresh baked daily breads, pastries,  tarts, croissants, cream puffs, and more, would be authentic. Aschbacher has quite the arsenal of training and experience under his toque, including stints at the Art Institute of Charleston, Red Velvet Catering, and Charleston Place Hotel. Then, there is the small fact that he’s from Germany and speaks with the charming lilt of his native language, beaming with pride for his craft as he does. He seems particularly well-suited to the small, intimate open-kitchen environment here – more relaxed than his Charleston Place days. It’s as if he’s in his element and it comes across in the food and entire wonderful Whisk experience.

Not just for pastries, Whisk also whips  hot and cold panini, assorted sandwiches, and salads into the mix. The Sweet & Spicy Halloumi Panini ($7.50) showcased a layer of chewy, mild Halloumi, a sheep’s milk cheese that hails from Greece. This was paired with a spread of sweet/hot pickled jalapenos, colorful pepper jelly, and a dash of fresh arugula. Panini pressed and toasted to warm, ooey gooey goodness, it was light enough to invite dessert, but substantial enough to fill most appetites. It was a perfect late morning snack.  Eyeballing the cream puffs and croissants that I knew I would be taking home with me, I shared the second half with my neighboring German (by now) friends.  Again, they declared it “delicious!” On my not too distant to-do list is the tempting sounding Grilled Mac & Cheese with Pulled Pork Sandwich ($8.50). But first, we have to talk pastries.

Bottom left to right: Croissant, Chocolate Eclair, Cream Puff and Blackberry Lemon Curd Tartlet.

All  are made daily, in-house (except the bagels which are delivered from another unnamed  source),  and all are remarkably beautiful and fresh. Aschbacher’s croissant($2.90) is a bit doughier and less flaky and buttery than you will find at Macaroon a little further up town, but it’s nonetheless delightful and divine with a cup of Whisk’s rich and satisfying coffee. A cheerful order-taker who also serves as the resident barista,  handled the increasing length of the line well as she neatly bundled the take-away sweet treats pictured above.

In my mind, the cream puff ($2.75), with an elegantly airy choux pastry and ever-so-lightly sweetened whipped cream and the creamy, tart/sweet lemon curd tartlet topped with deep purple, sweet blackberries and a dusting of chopped pistachios  ($3.50) out-matched their take-away box companions, but everything about Whisk gives cause to smile and stop by a while.

Seating is limited and comfortable, but it’s just as lovely to take away a bag of Whisk treats and enjoy them at nearby Waterfront Park.

Whisk Bakery

209 Meeting Street Charleston, SC 29401

(843) 628-5954

www.whiskcharleston.com

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Food Festival Fun – Then and Now

Posted on February 27, 2012 by holly

It’s almost impossible to believe, but prior to 2006, Charleston, SC was food festival-less.  Angel Postell and her formidable team changed all that in the spring of 2006 with the advent of what’s now called The BB&T Charleston Wine & Food Festival.

The timing was impeccable. While Charleston restaurants have been on the food world’s radar for some twenty five years, it’s in just the past few six or seven years that it’s gotten smokin’ hot in Charleston’s restaurant kitchens. Since then, not one but three local chefs have taken home James Beard awards, many others have been nominated, Sean Brock’s newest restaurant, Husk, has been deemed the best new restaurant of the year, and more amazing restaurants are popping up (particularly on Upper King Street) than mushrooms after a rain storm. So, it seems absolutely fitting that we have a world-class festival to showcase our own local culinary talent, as well as that of the entire nation.

As the 7th festival prepares to kick off this week, March 1 – March 4, I’ve been spending a lot of time reflecting on festival’s past, especially the very first festival. The final planning for the festival happened to coincide with my recent resignation as a restaurant critic and food writer for The Post and Courier, Charleston’s local daily newspaper. Thus,for the first time in nearly a decade, I was able to step out and away from the mandated cloud of absolute anonymity around local chefs, and into the front lines of all the fun.

I remember sitting around Nathalie Dupree’s dining room table with a group of about twelve people on the planning committee putting the finishing touches on the last frantic rounds of planning. That very same week, I made a trip with a few other brave soldiers to a local restaurant supply store armed with a very long list of items to purchase for the demo and prep kitchens, filling at least four carts along the way. A few days before the festival, myself and a tiny group worked unpacking those very items along with a huge collection of Le Crueset pots and pans to set up the prep kitchen. There was laughter, there was a lot of wind flapping the wings of the tents, and there were a lot of raw nerves.  But, when it was all said and done, the first festival came and went amazingly smoothly and was generally well-received. And, in subsequent years, they have only gotten better.

Over the years, some memories stand out more than others. The year of the “gale,” when driving wind and copious amounts of rain practically drowned the opening night gala tent. The year the Le Crueset wall in the demo tent came tumbling down. The year a slightly sodden stalker followed me relentlessly all around the tasting tent. The year I ran all around Marion Square, twice, to try and find a fresh, whole head of garlic for the always gentlemanly Frank Stitt. The year a slightly pampered chef (who shall remain un-named) had a melt down over roasted beets and some apparent errors in his demo basket preparation.  The year of my first book signing. And, then there was the year I covered the festival’s headlining event, Food & Wine with a View, starring Daniel Boulud.

In Complete Food Festival Heaven. Photograph by Squire Fox.

 

Because I trained in Paris at Le Cordon Bleu, French chefs have always ranked very high on my list of people I admire. It’s the way the work, the way they speak, the way they create – when well done, it’s captivating, inspiring, and delicious. My job on this night was simple – watch, listen, eat, drink and eventually, write about it. It was the dream assignment! Watching Chef Boulud and his team orchestrate the preparation of the feast was like watching poetry in motion, a perfectly executed performance of culinary theater. Even though it’s been over two years, every morsel of the entire evening is permanently etched in my mind.

But, of all the events, food, wine, glamor,  it’s being down in the trenches, behind the scenes in the decidedly unglamorous (but highly functional) demo prep kitchen where I love being best. This is where the action is – bulk chopping and dicing, the unique camaraderie that exists between fellow chefs and cooks, hard, manual labor, and, usually some amazing rocking tunes to set it all off blaring from a remote corner of the tent.

That’s where I’ll be in just a few days. It can’t get here soon enough!

For more information and/or tickets to the BB&T Charleston Wine & Food Festival, visit www.charlestonwineandfood.com

 

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Cheese Glorious Cheese

Posted on February 11, 2012 by holly

Many mornings, I awake dreaming of cheese. It’s a strange admission, but it’s true. I believe my love of cheese goes back to my French years. Nearly every day of every seven of those years began with a toasted baguette and a layer of broiled, stinky, fabulous French cheese, drizzled with a bit of honey accompanied by a steaming bowl of cafe au lait. Not a bad way to start the day, non?

A few days ago, one of those sneaky cheese dreams jump-started my day, so I decided it was time to finally check out goat. sheep. cow, a ten month-old cheese/wine/charcuterie shop I’ve heard a lot about but had not yet visited. Subliminally, I think it’s because I was afraid I would be disappointed. Instead, I was utterly delighted.

Aptly named after the three milk-bearing animals whose milk is used to produce cheese (and just down the door from Dog & Horse art gallery – I kid you not!), the petite and cheerful space completely recalls a Parisian boulangerie/fromagerie. This particular block of Church Street, in all of its colonial splendor, is dappled with sunlight and draped with cheerful window boxes.

Pretty window boxes line this pretty stretch of Church Street, home of goat. sheep. cow.

 

The exterior of the shop has an appealing Parisian patina, as well.

Welcome to goat.sheep.cow. Come on in!

But, it’s what awaits inside that will give any cheese lover multiple reasons to beam. Gleaming cases stacked with well-labeled cheeses of every kind from all over the world tease with their endless edible possibilities – fondue, sandwich, casserole, quiche, or straight out of hand. Owners Patty Cohen (husband Mike, a certified sommelier, handles the wine side of things) and Trudi Wagner were on hand to hand-slice the cheese, kindly offering tastings to help me make what was becoming an agonizingly difficult cheese acquisition decision.

Pass the Cheese, Please!

Ultimately, I walked away with small, neatly wrapped wedges of Brebis, Raclette, Nuvola di Pecora and Rosso di Langa. But, that was just the beginning.  The shop also sells beautiful, golden, firm, oven-fresh baguettes tucked into brown paper sleeves in a brimming basket near the front door. The bread is shipped in from New York and baked off at the shop to ensure not only freshness but authenticity.

The irresistible allure of the bread basket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, I picked up a baguette, a bottle of Burgundy, and a small packet of whisper-thin, freshly sliced Finocchiona, a lovely Italian cured charcuterie laced with tiny points of fennel seeds. I decided to take my cheese cache home to make a sandwich. Sandwiches are not prepared in-house, but really, there is no need. Grab some cheese, bread, and wine and do as the French do and head on out to one of Charleston’s many lovely, nearby parks on one of Charleston’s many lovely days, and have a picnic.

Back at home, I halved a generous length of the fresh, delicious baguette, spread it with a generous layer of Dijon mustard, and stacked it with the  nutty, sweet Italian cow/sheep Rosso di Langa with a layer of charcuterie, poured a glass of wine, took a bite, and was back in that cheese dream all over again. Except, this time it was real.

You, too, can satisfy your delicious cheese (and wine, and bread, and charcuterie, too) dreams at goat. sheep. cow. Fabulous service and a winning location render it just about perfect.

goat. sheep. cow

106B Church Street, downtown Charleston, SC 29401

(843) 480-6526

www.goatsheepcow.com

Book Giveaway! Food Lovers’ Guide to Charleston and Savannah – The Best Restaurants, Markets & Local Culinary Offerings (Globe Pequot Press, December 2011)

A free signed copy of this, my latest book, is promised to the first person who correctly identifies the two thinly-veiled puns in this post relating to the types of animals in this shop’s name. Hint: The first is cow-specific and is closely followed by a goat-specific pun. Leave your answer in the comments section and I’ll get back to the winner ASAP. Good luck!

 

 

 

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