Sassy Southern Cooking with a French Twist

Recipes from My Kitchen

Recipes from my kitchen – either from my cookbooks or recipes tested for events or for upcoming books I’m working on.

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Sparkling Fruity Slushy for Cool Fourth of July Fun

Celebrating Summer and Fourth of July Following a Nearly Forgotten Spring

Forgive me readers, it’s been three months since my last blog post.

Almost certainly like you, this pandemic situation has left me remembering aspects of my life long-forgotten (like regular childhood confessions before receiving sacrament at Mass), and creating fresh habits and perspectives that have enhanced my own life and cooking in ways I could never have imagined.  In the newly refreshed long-forgotten camp, the meditative power of cleaning and walking and time alone with pets. My nature renaissance even extended to a burgeoning love of “birding” and a fascination with a young family of finches that were born, nurtured, and fledged outside my front door petunia basket around Mother’s Day.  In the fresh habits, I’ve cut out television (especially news, which I refuse to watch), worked with and cooked almost exclusively with fresh fruits and vegetables, eaten more ice cream (!!), and increased my reading and (not surprisingly) kitchen time. I’ve spent a lot of time feeling grateful for the small bounties afforded every day that in busier months past I may have overlooked.  I even rediscovered with childlike glee fireflies flitting about a few evenings ago. For reasons unknown, even though I was cooking more and even better foods, I felt less inspired to tell people about it. I wanted to keep it, and a lot of things, to myself. I went inward. That’s where I and maybe you needed to be, too.

But, with July here, and mercifully the specter of Covid-19 (though still here) waning with the slow reopening of a prudent, contained Virginia, I do want to share this delicious fruity recipe for a cool, alcohol-free slushy with you to help you celebrate July 4th and summer, safely, and in this case, most healthfully. The “core” of this recipe is frozen watermelon, an idea shared with me by my boyfriend, who has also polished his cooking knowledge and interest during this slow time. He freezes watermelon and grapes to have as cool treats and possible embellishments to his morning “green” drinks. So, I’ve added a freezer bag to my freezer at all times. The trick is to get your hands on a nice, mini, sweet, seedless watermelon. Wash well in lightly soapy water (even in non Covid-19 times), rinse, and dry.  After that, I cut mine in half, and then slice each half into several 1-inch thick slices. From there, cut off the rinds (discard or compost), and cut the melon into 2-inch cubes. Pop in a freezer bag and forget about them until it’s time for a cool, mid-afternoon, mouth popping snack, or a refreshing summertime “slushy.”

Make it just before using. The Sprite (or lime/lemon soda) will lose its pop within about one hour. If you don’t use it all at once, keep it cool in the fridge or freezer. If you want to modify, feel free to add a banana or peaches or alcohol – vodka would make a neat, clean addition.  For extra fun, you could pour it over a few of your own watermelon ice cubes.  Garnish with fresh blueberries, mint, and an old-fashioned red and white paper straw, if you like.

Have fun and be safe out there and remember to count your blessings every day. Be kind, patient, and know that this, and nothing, lasts forever. Including life. Cherish yours and those you love and Happy Fourth of July and cooking! I’ll be enjoying mine, especially watching my little finch family, two babies all grown up to almost indiscernible adulthood now, feeding at the feeder outside my kitchen window.

Sparkling Watermelon & Strawberry Mint Slushy

(Makes 2 large to 4 moderate servings)

Sparkling Frozen Watermelon and Strawberry Mint Slushy

 

Ingredients:

2 cups frozen watermelon cubes

1 cup hulled, halved fresh strawberries

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

8 leaves (about 1 tablespoon fresh mint)

2 cups Sprite or another lemon/lime soda

Pulse to combine in a blender until frothy smooth. Serve immediately. Garnish with fresh blueberries and mint leaves.

Bon appetit!

 

Holly and Rocky and “my” baby finches, just about to fly the nest and into their new lives, on Memorial Day.

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

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Super Bowl Well-Seasoned

A Super Bowl of Mexican Flavor Feeds Football in a Big Way 

When I was twelve and The Super Bowl was in its nascent 11th year, my sister and I were invited to assist our neighbor, Mrs. Corcoran, to help orchestrate her annual Super Bowl party. This was a big deal for me in a lots of ways. Firstly, it was a big promotional step up in status and income from my $1 per-hour regular babysitting gigs with her three very sweet children. Those evenings were mostly spent in front of the TV, monitoring the children (just a few years younger than me) and making sure they got to bed safely and on time. But, for this, the whole neighborhood of adults (and then some) would be there. Our job was to work in her enormous kitchen with a sweeping view of The Indian River serving the likes of things I’d never seen or heard of before; real guacamole, real salsa, nachos, and more. This was a virtual culinary rite of passage for me.  Mrs. Corcoran was my first exposure to “gourmet” cuisine as I knew it, and I’ll never forget her for it. Or the fat, apres-party cash stash that fueled that spring’s sixth grade wardrobe shopping spree.

In the early years of The Super Bowl,  most American’s awareness (or at least mine) of gourmet didn’t go much beyond the frozen food aisle or occasional fresh pineapple at Christmas. We’ve all grown up a lot since then, but in some ways not. Fast food came, went, and came back again, and still hangs around in the form of prepared queso, salsas and chips.  Twenty years since culinary school and nine cookbooks later, even I can accept a little bit of these ingredients aptly tucked into a delicious bowl of football-friendly fare such as the Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake recipe that follows.  (Adapted from Mashed – Beyond the Potato, Gibbs Smith, 2016, by Holly Herrick. Photograph by Alexandra DeFurio). This is delicious, easy, and unforgettable.

Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake

(Yields 8 to 10 servings)

A bit of help using canned black beans, tortilla chips, queso sauce, and salsa from your grocer’s shelves brings this filling, crunchy, cheesy, spicy casserole of Mexican goodness together in fairly short order. It’s perfect for game day or any time you’ve got a hungry crowd to feed on your hands.

Mexican Black Bean Nacho Bake from Mashed – Beyond the Potato by Holly Herrick (Gibbs Smith, 2016). Photo by Alexandra DeFurio.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 poblano chile pepper, seeded and finely diced

1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and finely diced

1/2 red onion, peeled and finely diced

1 stalk celery, finely diced

1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

4 cloves garlic, peeled, smashed, and finely diced

2 (15.5 ounce) cans black beans, well-drained

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

1 cup medium tomato salsa

1/2 cup low-sodium chicken stock

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped unsweetened 90 percent dark chocolate

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese, divided

1 1/2 cups queso cheese

Method:

Preheat oven to 325F. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large saucepan. Add the poblano, jalapeno, onion, celery, salt, pepper, cumin, oregano, and garlic: stir to coat. Cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, until softened. Add the black beans, vinegar, salsa, and stock. Stir then simmer over medium heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Add the chocolate and honey. Continue to simmer for 10-15 minutes.

Mash with a hand-held masher until chunky smooth. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Grease a 2-quart casserole dish with the butter. Using a spatula, evenly spread the black bean mixture into the casserole. Top with 1 cup cheddar cheese. Top this with the crushed tortilla chips, and then top with the remaining cheddar cheese. Bake, uncovered, for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and top with an even layer of queso cheese. Bake for another 20 m inutes. Serve hot, fresh from the oven, with a dollop of sour cream and additional salsa or queso, if desired.

May the best team win! Have a super Super Bowl.

Bon appetit,

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick Holly and Rocky

 

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Elegant Oyster Bisque Kicks Off Christmas Dinner with Style

I like Christmas dinner to be a quiet, more subdued occasion than its more boisterous, often frenzied holiday meal counterpart, Thanksgiving.  I most enjoy small groups of four to six at an elegantly dressed table; meals plated and served by courses. It tends to slow everything way down, so that both eating and appreciation of special time with friends and family takes on the sacred glow and joy of Christmas.

And, what better way to kick it all off than with an elegant bisque? Creamy, silky, and rich, bisque just says screams special occasion dining. This recipe pairs the darlings of  cool weather southern dining (oysters) with the oft under-rated, humble parsnip.  The result is decadence in a spoon, sweet, creamy and simple. The parsnips add natural sweetness and fat-free girth to the soup.  Served piping hot in elegant, shallow bowls, it is the perfect way to start your Christmas dinner. The base can be prepared completely in advance and the bisque finished at the last second. This is a favorite from my cookbook, The French Cook – Soups & Stews (Gibbs Smith, 2014).

Bisque D’Huitres et de Panais

Oyster and Parsnip Bisque

(Makes 8 to 10 servings)

Oyster and Parsnip Bisque makes a majestic and easy start to your holiday meal. From The French Cook – Soups & Stews (Gibbs Smith) Photo by Chia Chong).

Parsnips and oysters may sound like odd bisque-fellows, but they actually make a lot of sense. Parsnips, like turnips, are sweet, lovely root vegetables frequently used in French kitchens.  Their sweetness plays beautifully with the oysters, and the starch in the parsnips gives a velvety texture to this heavenly bisque. Even better, since oyster shells don’t yield much in terms of flavor. The oyster flavor comes from the brine they’re stored in, as well as the oysters themselves, which are stirred into the bisque at the very end. If making this soup ahead, hold off and add the oysters and cream just before serving. Willapoint oysters, readily available in the brine in the refrigerator section of most fish counters at the grocery, are firm and meaty. Use the freshest raw oyster you can find, and don’t discard the brine except into the soup pot. It is one of the flavor keys to the bisque.

Ingredients:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 leek, trimmed to 1 inch above the white root, halved vertically, well rinsed and finely chopped

2 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

2 medium parsnips, peeled, quartered vertically, and finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup dry vermouth, plus 1 tablespoon

1/2 cup good-quality Chardonnay

4 tablespoons all-purpose flour

4 cups good-quality, low sodium boxed seafood/fish stock or homemade fish stock

1 cup finely chopped oyster or chanterelle mushrooms, touch feet removed

3 (8-ounce) packages Willapoint oysters (3 cups)

1 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme leaves

Method:

In a 5 1/2-quart Dutch oven or similarly sized soup pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the leek, shallots, parsnips, and thyme and season with salt and pepper. Stir to coat. Cook over medium heat, stirring several times, for 15 minutes, until all the vegetables have softened (do not let them color). Add the 1/2 cup vermouth, increase heat to medium-high, and cook down to a glaze, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the Chardonnay and cook down to a glaze, 1 to 2 minutes. Scatter the flour evenly over the pot and stir to combine. Whisk in the fish stock, and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce to medium/medium-low and cook uncovered for 15 minutes, skimming off any initial foam/scum that rises to the top.

Puree until frothy smooth with a blender or food processor. Return to the pot. Add the mushrooms, oysters, and cream. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, reduce to medium, and cook through for 5 to 8 minutes, until the oysters are firm and opaque. Taste, and adjust seasonings as needed. Finish with 1 tablespoon of vermouth, if desired, and fresh thyme. Serve very hot.

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As always, wishing you and yours, happy cooking and a joyful holiday season.

Bon appetit!

Holly and Rocky

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

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Christmas Buttermilk Grits & Apple Loaves

A few weeks ago, a friend and colleague sent me a generous bundle of white and yellow stone-ground grits (and some bread & butter pickles, cornmeal, and house made biscuits for my dog Rocky) from The Old Mill, one of the last remaining water-powered mills left in the country. He promised me they would be unlike any other grits I’ve ever had, and he was right. The water that powers the mill comes from the Little Pigeon River in TN and grinds the organic corn between flint granite stones that mold it to a just-right texture, leaving the entire grain intact, and the grits with a fresh, nutty aroma as well-suited to a bowl of the stuff as they are these sweet little cakes, perfect for Christmas and the holidays.

In creating a Christmas recipe worthy of these stellar corn nuggets, I wavered between savory and sweet, but ultimately settled on these loaves, enhanced with the bittersweet edge of Granny Smith apples, tang and richness of buttermilk and sour cream, and just the right kiss of butter and honey for a festive flavor and color glow. The end result was very pleasing, if not just a bit unconventional. I added some finely chopped fresh rosemary which added pretty green flecks and a pine aroma for Christmas spirit, but rosemary may not be for everyone on your holiday baking list.  Because I studied in France where the reigning motto (for women and food) is “the smaller it is, the cuter it is” and because individual portions make for nice presentations, I baked them in my individual loaf pans, but a standard loaf pan is fine, too. It will just take longer to cook.  I really enjoy the loaves refrigerated, sliced and toasted, and served warm with coffee, a special kind of grits and apples coffee cake, especially nice for the holidays in front of a blazing fire. A dollop of freshly whipped cream would be a nice touch, too.

Christmas Buttermilk Grits and Apple Loaves beautifully wrapped for holiday entertaining joy.

Christmas Buttermilk Grits & Apple Loaves

(Makes 4 small loaf pans or 1 standard loaf tin)

For the apples:

1 tablespoon dark brown sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Juice of 1/2 lemon (about 2 teaspoons)

2 medium Granny Smith apples, peeled, halved, cored, and thinly sliced

3/4 cup white Old Mill grits

3/4 cup yellow Old Mill grits

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 eggs, beaten

1 cup buttermilk

1/2 cup whole sour cream

1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted

To top loaves before going in oven:

Drizzle of honey (about 1/4 cup total), 4 teaspoons cold butter

For garnish and pan prep:

Powdered sugar, fresh rosemary spritg, flour, room temperature butter

METHOD

Preheat oven to 375F.  To prep the pans (which is important to prevent sticking)  butter the loaf pan(s) generously with a solid coat of butter and dust well with flour, getting all the corners and crevices. Tap out any excess flour.

For the apples, melt the brown sugar, butter, and lemon juice together in a large saute pan over medium heat.  Add the apples and stir to coat. Reduce heat to medium and cook gently, for about 4 minutes, until they’re just beginning to soften. Remove from heat and set aside.

Combine the dry ingredients (white grits, yellow grits, flour, sugar, salt, and rosemary) in a large bowl, whisking well to blend evenly.  In a smaller bowl, whisk together the eggs, buttermilk, sour cream, and melted butter.  Stir the wet ingredients into the dried ingredients with a wooden spoon, stirring gently to just combine (Note: this is essentially a quick bread so do not over stir).

For individual loaf pans, ladle one cup of the batter into the bottom of each of the 4 pans, top with 1/2 cup even layer of apples, top with another 1 cup ladle of the batter, another 1/2 cup layer of the apples, and top each evenly with any remaining batter. Drizzle honey over the top of each and a pat of the cold butter on each.  For a full loaf pan, pour one third of the batter into the pan, top with half of the apples, and repeat until finished. Top evenly with honey and butter pats. Place the pan(s) on a baking sheet and bake for 35 – 40 minutes (individual) or 45 – 50 (standard) loaf pans, or until a knife comes out clean from the center of the cake(s).  Cool completely and turn the cakes out of the pans and turn top side-up.  Dust generously with powdered sugar to decorate and garnish (if desired) with fresh rosemary sprigs.

Cakes getting ready to go into the oven.

Cakes, perfectly golden brown and fresh from the oven.

I’m looking at my calendar and realizing we’re just two weeks from the close of this year and the debut of the next.  I hope your year has been filled with blessings and much deliciousness for the body and soul and that 2020 will bring more of the same. Until we get there, wishing you and yours the joy of the season, including baking and cooking for those you love.  Thank you Jimmy and The Old Mill for the beautiful grits and gifts. You can find yours online at The Old Mill.   Happiest of tidings!

Fondly,

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick

Holly and Rocky

 

 

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The Best Little Thanksgiving Appetizer Ever

Savory Three Cheese & Pepper Gougeres are Fast, Sexy, and Make-Ahead Easy 

Thanksgiving is a week away, and almost everyone I know (including me) is planning their menu.  A lot of people focus on the actual meal, but there is a lot of stomach-rumbling  downtime while guests sit around, sipping cocktails, and awaiting the feast. Why not fill this time and eager bellies with something light, elegant, easy to eat (one, two, three, pop, and she’s gone!), and something the cook can prepare wholly in advance? The answer, my culinary savvy friends, is savory cheese puffs, or as the French call them, Gougeres (gooj-air). They also go fabulously well with Champagne.

There is a common misconception about cream puffs, or anything involving pate a choux, which is actually more like a dough than a pastry. Many people think it’s hard to make or delicate or fussy. It’s not. It’s about the easiest thing to make (it actually likes to get beaten up a bit to activate the gluten) and if it falls flat, it’s quick and easy enough to whip up another batch. What I love about it, is you can add virtually anything to it, and you can make it ahead, cool, freeze, and reheat just before serving.  From my cookbook, The French Cook – Cream Puffs & Eclairs (Gibbs Smith, 2013), I hope this will make it to your holiday table:

 

Gougeres aux Trois Fromages et au Poivre

(Cheese Puffs with Three Cheeses and Pepper)

Yields 24 to 30 choux

Few things in life can beat a warm, crunchy cheese puff fresh out of the oven. This recipe includes a bit of freshly ground black pepper for kick (optional) and a combination of aged white cheddar, Gruyere, and Parmesan cheeses blended into the warm choux and melted just before baking.  Especially sturdy because of the cheese, these puffs freeze very well and reheat in a snap for instant entertaining.

Cheese Puffs with Three Cheeses and Pepper from The French Cook – Cream Puffs & Eclairs (Gibbs Smith, 2013) by Holly Herrick. Photo by Alexandra DeFurio.

Master Recipe for Savory Cream Puffs

1 cup water

3/4 stick cold unsalted butter cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup bread flour

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt or kosher salt

4 large eggs (about 1 cup), room temperature and beaten together

Remaining ingredients for cheese puffs:

1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper

1/2 cup grated aged white cheddar cheese

1/2 cup grated Gruyere or Swiss cheese

3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Egg wash: 1 egg yolk, splash of water, pinch of salt, blended together.

Method:

Preheat oven to 425F.

Prepare the Master Recipe base. Line two half-sheet baking pans with silicon mats or parchment paper. Measure all ingredient and have them ready before starting to prepare the choux. In a medium, heavy-bottom saucepan, heat the water and butter together over medium-high heat, stirring once or twice to melt the butter. Then reduce the heat to medium.

Sift together the two flours and salt over a medium bowl. Add the sifted dry ingredients all at once to the butter and water mixture, and set the bowl nearby. Stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon to help bring it into one cohesive ball. Continue stirring, less vigorously, until the pastry pulls away from the sides of the pan, another minute or so. Turn the dough out into the reserved bowl and let sit for about 1 minute or until it is cool enough to touch comfortably with your fingertip for about 10 seconds. Add half of the beaten eggs (about 1/2 cup) to the pastry. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until it looks uniform and glossy, about 1 minute. Add half of the remaining egg mixture (about 1/4 cup) and continue to stir until it is uniform and glossy. Repeat with the remaining egg mixture.

While the dough is still warm, stir in the ground pepper, cheddar, Gruyere and Parmesan. Blend with a wooden spoon until just melted and incorporated. Drop onto the lined baking sheets into rounded teaspoon sized balls. It’s much easier if you dip the spoon in water each time before dipping into the dough. Flatten the tops gently with your finger tips and brush lightly with the egg wash. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until puffed and golden brown. Turn off the oven, open the door, and let the choux stand for 5 minutes. Remove from the oven, transfer to a cooling rack, and when cool enough to handle, pierce the bottom of each gently with a knife. Serve immediately OR freeze for up to several weeks and thaw and reheat in a 425 oven just before serving.

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I’m hoping this “demystifies the puff” for you, as I like to say. They are so delightful and delicious and will add joy to  your Thanksgiving or anytime you desire. I make them in batches and freeze them for easy entertaining anytime of the year.

Wishing you the happiest and most blessed Thanksgiving holiday.

From our table to yours,

Author, Chef, Cookbook writer Holly Herrick Holly and Rocky

 

 

 

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